Germany > The Cologne Cathedral

Breakfast is served on the first floor of the hotel. We descend three flights of stairs. In the small breakfast room there are seven tables. Exactly one table is still free. At the buffet, we put together our breakfast. We’re just in time. Other guests have to wait until a table becomes free. After breakfast, we head into the city. The weather today is somewhat changeable. When the sun shines, it’s warm, but with clouds it’s chilly. Jacket on, jacket off seems to be the motto. We start at the Cologne Cathedral. The enormous cathedral is impossible to miss. In 1164, Archbishop von Dassel brought relics of the Three Kings, the Three Wise Men, and donated them to the church. Because of these relics, the church became a true pilgrimage site for believers. The church became too small, and it was decided to build a larger one. Construction started in 1248. After three centuries, work was halted. The money had run out, and the stream of pilgrims had diminished. Only in 1824 did they decide to complete the cathedral according to the original design. In 1880, after five centuries, the 157-meter-high cathedral was finished. Since then, renovation work has been ongoing continuously. When we enter the cathedral, we see the enormous nave, 144 meters long. Ushers are just opening the walking route through the church. The church is just opening. Inside, behind the altar, lie the supposed relics of the Three Kings in a gold-plated shrine.

Germany - The gilded box containing the relics of the Three Kings

The chest can only be seen from a distance. The route behind the altar is closed. The Treasury, the treasury room, is open. It’s not entirely clear to us how to get there. The door only says “exit.” An usher helps and explains this is the church exit. We can simply walk through to the Treasury. We buy two tickets and descend into the room beneath the church. Here too, we seem to be the first visitors of the day. Beautiful gilded artifacts, clerical clothing, and a shrine are on display. When we want to return to the church, we are told that, due to corona measures, we can no longer use that door. When we explain we just came from the church, it’s allowed. Confusing to say the least. From the church, we walk via the station to the Hohenzollern Bridge. Over this railway bridge spanning the Rhine, more than a thousand trains pass daily, making it one of the busiest bridges in the world.

Germany - The Hohenzollern Bridge is one of the busiest rail routes in Germany

Thousands of love locks hang on the bridge. Couples attach a lock when they get married to symbolize their bond. As far as you can see, locks hang along the entire bridge. There is no free spot left. On the other side of the Rhine stands the Köln Triangle. From the top of this building, you supposedly have the best view over the Hohenzollern Bridge, the cathedral, and the city of Cologne. Unfortunately, this triangular office tower with its observation deck is closed today. Due to corona, visitors are only allowed on non-office days. Via another bridge, we walk back to the old town. Cologne is the city of churches. Everywhere you see a church tower rising or hear bells ringing. We go looking for the Maria Church. Two churches dedicated to Mary stand close to each other. The first is simply furnished. All the pews have been removed. This can’t be the special church. Upon entering the other St. Maria im Kapitol church, we arrive in a cloister garden. From here, we enter the church. Upon entering, we are welcomed by the caretaker, who immediately gives us a Dutch description.

Germany - The choir and organ are placed above the altar

The church houses a unique wooden door from the eleventh century. Very special. The nave is also interesting. The church is identically built on three sides. The choir and organ are placed above the altar. You don’t see that often. When we go back outside, the caretaker speaks to us again. He wants to show us photos of how the church looked before. In the photos, we see the war damage and the renovation. He tells us the church was only put back into use in the 1980s. We thank him for the explanation and walk to the Martins Church. It’s not open yet. The weather remains variable and alternates between cold and warm. Maybe I don’t feel quite fit either. I decide to go back to the hotel room to rest. I probably need it. In the evening, I still don’t feel great but don’t know whether it’s because I’m unwell or because I’ve hardly eaten. I take the risk to go into the city for dinner. On the Heumarkt, there are cozy terraces. I order goulash soup with bread. This makes me feel better quickly. While we sit under the parasol on the terrace, it starts to drizzle. Everyone moves closer together a bit. The 1.5-meter distance suddenly seems less important. After dinner, we return to the hotel. I go to bed early.