Dominica > The Emerald Pool on Dominica

When we enter the breakfast buffet, we find that the restaurant is not yet open. They tell us it will open at eight o’clock. The past few days it had already opened at half past seven. We go down one floor. Here the buffet is open. The buffet is similar and the breakfast tastes fine. Around half past eight, we head to the pier. The cruise ship is docked right in the center of Roseau, the capital of Dominica. On the mainland is the meeting point for our excursion. First, we drive by minibus to the Morne Bruce Viewpoint. Zaya is our guide today. She tells us about some buildings we pass. She also explains that the capital was hit hard in 2017 by Hurricane Maria, a category 5 hurricane with winds up to 265 km/h. Repairs are still ongoing. The cathedral is still under construction. Luckily, I see some small improvements compared to last year. The second church still has no roof. The roof was lost during the storm. Now trees grow through the open frame of the church. Sad to see. The Morne Bruce Viewpoint used to be a military base, Zaya tells us. The English and French both fought for the island. Due to fierce resistance by the Dominicans, the French withdrew, leaving behind a trail of destruction. The English took control. Dominica only became independent in 1978. I see the city of Roseau and the ship AIDA Perla. The ship is taller than any building in the city. It is cloudy today and it looks like rain. Hopefully it won’t be too bad. The second stop is at the botanical garden.

Dominica - The guide shows the flag of Dominica

Zaya tells about the special plants and trees. Many species were imported and planted during British rule. In an aviary is the Sisserou parrot, the national bird of Dominica. The bird is also depicted on the country’s flag. I do my best but cannot distinguish the bird. I do hear it calling. After the botanical garden, we leave the capital and drive into the mountains. Dominica is one of the most mountainous Caribbean islands. Via hairpin bends we quickly gain altitude. We drive into the rainforest. Most of the island is covered with greenery. Nature is carefully preserved. Unfortunately, the dark sky turns into rain. A heavy shower passes. Zaya explains that the clouds are pushed up over the ocean, causing the rainfall. It often rains on Dominica, but briefly. We drive to the Emerald Pool, a waterfall almost in the center of the island. When we arrive, the worst of the rain has passed. I didn’t bring any rain protection. Just in case, I leave my backpack on the bus. A path through the jungle leads to the waterfall. The water splashes down from the rocks into a natural pool. Some people swim in the water. I hesitate. If I jump in with my swim shorts, they won’t dry before we continue. I decide to just put my feet in. The water feels cold. When we walk back, it starts to drizzle again.

Dominica - The waterfall of Emeralds Pool

Just as we reach the parking lot, a downpour breaks loose. We’ve been lucky. It also rains heavily during the bus ride to the coast. Zaya says the weather is often better on the west coast. The clouds descend again over the mountains. The weather clears and a cautious sun appears. Just after noon, we arrive at Mero Beach. Here we settle on a beach lounger. The loungers are included; the umbrellas are not. Today, they don’t seem necessary. We take a dip in the sea. It is wonderful to drift with the waves. Unfortunately, it starts to drizzle again. It is warm rain. When it dries up, we order a rum punch at the bar. According to the staff member, it’s the best rum punch on the island. Her grandmother made the punch herself. We enjoy this local drink in the sunshine. We get back in the bus for the last time on the way back to the ship. Halfway through, the driver feels the steering pulling. We have a flat tire. The bus is pulled to the side. A second driver comes to help and parks his bus behind us. Within ten minutes the tire is changed and we continue our journey. Back on the ship, we go to deck 14 for lunch. I have a simple cheese sandwich. In the afternoon, we walk into Roseau. Compared to last year, not much has changed yet. Buildings heavily damaged by the hurricane still stand as ruins. The Ruin Café, a café on the ground floor of a building without a roof, has live music. The café is packed with cruise passengers.

Dominica - A bar has opened in a hurricanedamaged building

At the cathedral, the church tower has been repaired and the roof fixed. Still, the church is not yet open. We walk to the Roseau River. Last year we had a drink in a container bar here. After the hurricane, containers were an easy form of housing. Our bar is now closed. But from a neighboring container, we are invited to sit down. We order a local beer from Dominica. The music is loud, making conversation difficult. The cats in the bar have caught a mouse. Outside the bar they release the poor animal only to catch it again. Their toy. Back on board, we want to order a drink. The bar is not open yet, the bartender says. It only opens at four o’clock. He laughs when I point out that it’s 3:59 PM. He hadn’t noticed. He pours a glass of wine that we take to our balcony. In the evening, we eat at the Casa Nova restaurant, an à la carte restaurant where we also ate on the first night. The menu is identical but there is plenty of choice. After dinner, we still have some time before the music show starts in the theater. We go to deck 14. Here we notice it is raining heavily outside. The rain pounds on the roof of the pool. We decide to go to the theater early and wait there until the show starts. The band plays well-known hits. When we go back to our cabin at ten o’clock, we receive a message that the tour with the ‘Sugar Train’ tomorrow in Saint Kitts cannot take place. The train is broken. There are not many alternative excursions or they are no longer available. What a pity. We decide to check for alternatives on the quay tomorrow morning. Now we will go to sleep.