Antigua and Barbuda > St. John's Cathedral on Antigua

As friendly as every morning, we are welcomed by the staff at the breakfast buffet. I get a fist bump. Both guys are from the Philippines and have been on board for several months. Today we are docked at the island of Antigua, which together with the neighboring island forms Antigua and Barbuda. Since we have an excursion this afternoon, we have plenty of time this morning to visit the capital, St. Johns. It is relatively quiet. Only our ship is at the pier. There is space for six cruise ships and two more ships just outside St. Johns. When all spots are taken, that means over 20,000 passengers. Because there are fewer travelers today, many taxi drivers have no customers. As soon as we start walking into St. Johns, we are asked dozens of times if we want a taxi to the beach. Some whisper they’ll do it for twenty-five dollars. We are not interested. Last year we were also in St. Johns. Then we decided not to visit the cathedral because it was already late in the afternoon. By the time we changed our minds, the church was already closed. The St. Johns Anglican Cathedral is an impressive baroque cathedral. The church towers above the city. From the outside, the cathedral is built of British stone. Inside, the church is entirely finished with mahogany wood—a beautiful combination.

Antigua and Barbuda - The street scene of St Johns

It doesn’t feel too bad having to pay an entrance fee to visit the cathedral. The money is badly needed for maintenance, and the church could use some restoration. From the church, we walk to the colonial Governor’s House. The building is being restored. From the entrance gate, the security guard allows us to take a photo, but the park is not accessible. We continue to the market. We pass the old cricket stadium and the Ministry of Finance. We’re not far from the center, but it feels like the outskirts. We choose the busiest streets just to be safe. The market hall is quiet. We meet a Canadian who tells us he is traveling by boat from island to island and will be on the road for six months in total. He also says the market is livelier on Fridays and Saturdays. On weekdays, many people work. We walk to the other side of the center. There is activity everywhere, although it looks somewhat chaotic. We arrive at the Antigua and Barbuda Museum. The museum is housed in an old colonial building. Inside, a simple exhibition explains the life of the Arawak Indians, Columbus’s arrival in 1493, and the colonial rule that followed.

Antigua and Barbuda - The mill at the sugarcane plantation Bettys Hope

With pride, Vere Cornwall Bird is also honored—the first prime minister after independence in 1981. After the city tour, we return to the ship. We order coffee. At one o’clock, we are back at the pier. Chaimaca accompanies us on the afternoon excursion. On the way to the bus, we start talking. When she says something to the group, she asks us uncertainly, “Does the group actually understand English?” Probably not. She decides to continue the explanation at a slow pace. The first stop is in the town of Parham. This was the first settlement on the island. We visit St. Peter’s Anglican Church. The original wooden church was built in 1711 but later destroyed by fire. A replacement structure built in 1754 was demolished. The current stone church was completed in 1840. The church suffered considerable damage during an earthquake in 1843 but was later restored. Via the harbor, where fishing boats are moored, we continue to Betty’s Hope. This is a former sugarcane plantation. The name is derived from the daughter of the plantation owner. Slaves were forced to work on the colony. The sugarcane was ground with the help of windmills and distilled into rum in the distillery. The plantation remained in operation until the twentieth century.

Antigua and Barbuda - The natural bridge over water in Antigua

The mill has been restored. The other buildings have fallen into ruins. The last stop is on the east coast. The waves of the Atlantic Ocean crash against the rocks here. Here lies the Devil’s Bridge, a natural rock bridge. Several slaves jumped from the cliff into the sea here to commit suicide, thus escaping colonial oppression. The sea pounds the water beneath the stone arch. I strike up a conversation with a family. The grandfather proudly points to his children and grandchildren. Unfortunately, the family is gathered because they buried their mother yesterday. I offer my condolences. Yet he still wants a photo with me in it. In about forty minutes, we drive back to the ship. The bar by the pool is pleasantly busy. We order a drink. In the evening, we eat at the Donna Bella buffet restaurant. This restaurant is smaller and therefore cozier. We start talking with a Dutch couple. They have done dozens of cruises. We have to hurry to be on time for the theater. We can’t find any free seats. A couple we sat next to yesterday calls us over. They still have two seats with a good view. Their friends decided not to come. Max Olbrich performs as a comedian and magician. He does various tricks with the audience. It’s a fun show. We end the evening at the beach bar by the pool. There is a laser show at ten o’clock. It’s funny to see this above the swimming water.