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Travelogue Caucasus Tour

September 13th - October 3th 2025 (21 days)


Armenia > The Spear of the Geghard Monastery

Dag 14 - Friday, September 26, 2025

After breakfast in the hotel’s basement, we depart again at nine o’clock for an excursion. Today we are driving east to visit the Garni Temple and the Geghard Monastery. After about an hour through busy traffic, we arrive at the Garni Gorge. The bus cannot descend into the gorge, so we are transported in 4x4 vehicles to the start of the gorge. Just as I prepare for a rough stretch of the route, we are already there—no spectacular descent. The Garni Gorge is flanked on both sides by tall basalt rock formations. The hexagonal basalt is formed when hot lava flows cool rapidly, for example due to water. The stone pillars appear to hang against the cliff face. The term “basalt organ” is fitting. I feel a bit weak today. Could it be last night’s dinner, or am I catching a mild flu? It seems to be going around within the travel group.

Armenia - The impressive basalt rock formations near Garni

While other travelers walk further into the gorge, I decide to return earlier. In the 4x4 vehicles, we are driven to the Garni Temple. The temple stands atop a cliff. This Roman temple was probably built around 175 AD. It was restored in the 1970s. It is both remarkable and amusing to see such a Roman structure in Armenia. I explore the temple inside and walk a circuit around the columns. I also visit the ancient Roman bathhouse. A video shows how the different rooms were heated in the past. A small portion of the mosaic floor has been preserved. About half an hour further is the Geghard Monastery. My feeling of weakness has turned into nausea. Fortunately, I have a plastic bag just in case.

Armenia - The ancient Roman temple of Garni

The Geghard Monastery, located in the narrow Amat Valley, is one of the most impressive religious complexes in the country. It was founded in the 4th century on the site where, according to tradition, the Holy Lance—used to pierce Christ’s side—was kept. The name Geghard means “spear.” The current monastery mostly dates from the 13th century and is famous for its churches and chapels partially carved out of solid rock. Although I feel increasingly unwell, I follow the guide Armine into the church.

Armenia - The Monastery of Geghard is a pilgrimage site for believers

She explains that the monastery is a pilgrimage site for Armenian Christians because of the relics housed there. From the church, I can enter the small rock-carved chapels. There is also a spring here. Overall, it is a remarkable complex and part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. After the visit, we return to Yerevan. Today’s program is not yet over, but I decide to be dropped off at the hotel. I think it’s better to rest in bed so that I can participate in tomorrow’s activities. The rest of the group goes to the genocide memorial and museum just outside the city. I will hear their stories later. After a short nap, I feel much better.

SighnaghiView over Sighnaghi and the deep valley
Sulphur bathsThe ancient 5thcentury sulphur baths show Turkish influences
Dilapidated housesThe heavily deteriorated houses in Tbilisi
Sioni CathedralThe Sioni Cathedral houses the cross of Saint Nino