Azerbaijan > The Rock Engravings of Gobustan

Azerbaijan - The BibiHeybat Mosque is an important pilgrimage site and houses the tomb of Ukeyma Khanum

Today we leave Baku, which means I have to pack my suitcase again. The view from the breakfast buffet on the eleventh floor is much clearer. I can now see the Caspian Sea clearly. The weather forecast for today is much better—no rain is expected. That doesn’t matter too much, though, as we are traveling by bus to western Azerbaijan today. Tomorrow we will cross the border into Georgia. By quarter to nine, all the luggage is loaded onto the bus, and we leave the hotel. On the outskirts of the city, we visit the Bibi-Heybat Mosque. The current mosque is a reconstruction from the 1990s of an original 13th-century mosque that was destroyed by the Soviets in 1936. It is an important pilgrimage site and houses the tomb of Ukeyma Khanum, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. From the mosque’s terrace, I look out over the harbor and the city of Baku. Just south of Baku lies Gobustan National Park, home to historic rock carvings. Some of these images are over seven thousand years old. Upon arriving at the park, I follow Mehmet along a stone path between the rocks. The view of the wide landscape and the Caspian Sea alone is already stunning. Mehmet points out some of the historic carvings etched into the rocks: bulls, horses, and human figures. It is remarkable that these images have withstood erosion from wind and rain. Through a narrow passage, we enter a sort of cave. Numerous rock carvings are found here as well. In the region, over six thousand images have been discovered on rocks—but fortunately, we do not see them all. The associated museum disappoints me somewhat; perhaps we should have visited it first. There is some explanation about the carvings and the region’s ancient inhabitants. I recognize a few images I had just seen. We drive on quickly. Today we cover over three hundred kilometers across Azerbaijan. Along the way, the landscape changes from flat to gently rolling hills.

Azerbaijan - The rock carvings of Gobustan

It is barren and dry, with little construction along the route. As I look out the window, I try to spot anything uniquely Azerbaijani that isn’t seen in other countries. I quickly notice that all trucks and vans display the letters and numbers of their license plates prominently on the back of the vehicle—likely a legal requirement for easier checks. Along the road, there are frequent police checkpoints, and vehicles are randomly pulled over. Our bus does not need to stop. Around half past one, we approach Shamakhi, a medium-sized city in the country’s center. We stop at a kind of supermarket to eat. Inside, there are several counters where you can order food. I choose a plate of chicken in sauce with rice. It costs just three euros, including a cola.

Azerbaijan - The caravanserai in Sheki now houses a hotel

After lunch, we prepare to continue toward Sheki. Just outside the city, we visit Yeddi Gumbaz—the seven tombs of the Khans. Only three tombs remain standing; the rest collapsed during earthquakes. It is still about a three-hour drive to Sheki. The road winds through the mountains, offering magnificent views. Late in the afternoon, we arrive in Sheki, a city in northwestern Azerbaijan. On the northern side of the city is the Khan’s Palace, which we will visit tomorrow. Today we stay in an old caravanserai. Our room is on the first floor of the 300-year-old complex. A stone staircase with high steps leads up to the gallery. The room is simple and located under the brick vaults of the caravanserai. We don’t have much time to look around. Opposite the hotel, we can taste Azerbaijani wine. Mohammed lets us try several white and red wines, explaining the types and the regions where the grapes grow. Each time, we are poured a small amount from a total of eight different bottles. Everyone has their preference. After the wine tasting, we eat in the caravanserai’s garden. Dinner is served outdoors. I’m glad I put on my sweater. I order piti, a local stew of lamb, chickpeas, and vegetables served in an earthenware pot. The waiter pours the broth onto my plate and mashes the remaining meat and vegetables. He explains that I should dip the bread in the broth and eat it together with the piti. It tastes delicious.

Azerbaijan - Sampling Azerbaijani wines