Armenia > Three Monasteries in One Day

When we wake up, we have a beautiful view over Lake Sevan from the fourth floor of our hotel. The sun has just risen on the far side of the lake. The water is perfectly still. In the restaurant near the water, breakfast is ready. At nine o’clock, we leave the hotel. We drive a short distance along the lake to the Sevan Peninsula. On the peninsula stands the Sevanavank Monastery. This monastery was founded as early as the ninth century. Its uniqueness lies especially in the location of the two churches, with Lake Sevan stretching out behind them. From the parking lot, I have to climb over 200 steps to reach the churches. It is still early, and most of the souvenir vendors are busy setting up their stalls. When I reach the top, the little church is still closed. When I rattle the door, I hear noises inside, but it does not open. I walk around the churches, enjoying the view of the lake. Just as I am about to go back down, I check the door one more time. It is now open. Quickly, I enter the small church. The atmosphere is wonderful—I wouldn’t have wanted to miss this. Today we are driving to northern Armenia. Along the way, we will visit several sites. One of the first stops is the village of Dilijan. In the past, this village was home mainly to wealthy Russians and contained several spas.

Armenia - The Sevanavank Monastery on the shore of Lake Sevan

The village lies in the middle of Dilijan National Park, and the mountain slopes give it a Swiss-like atmosphere. Unfortunately, the village has also fallen into decay, especially after the COVID period, when little was done to maintain its appeal. I stroll among the old houses. It is a charming little place, but not more than that. A Dutch off-road vehicle is parked nearby. Its occupants enthusiastically tell us that they have been traveling for three years, spending a lot of time in Africa. They are now on their way back to the Netherlands. Money is almost gone, and they want to be home by Christmas. About half an hour outside of Dilijan lies the Hagartsin Monastery, also within Dilijan National Park. The bus cannot reach the entrance due to the narrow roads, so we have to walk the last stretch along the road and through the forest. Hagartsin Monastery has been fully restored recently. The complex dates from the tenth century. It is believed that the Bagratuni kings Smbat II and Gavin I were buried here at the end of the tenth century. St. Gregory’s Church is the largest church in the complex.

Armenia - The restored Hagartsin Monastery

The gavit, the front church, is wider and larger than the church itself. The monastery was destroyed several times during wars. In 2011, the entire Hagartsin complex was restored. From the monastery, we continue toward Vanadzor, Armenia’s second-largest city. It is already half past one when we arrive. We stop at a food court for lunch. I am not very hungry, so I order a sandwich with sausage. After the sandwich, my attention is drawn to the pastries. I order one, and it tastes less sweet than I expected. In the afternoon, we drive to the last stop for today. Around half past three, we arrive at Sanahin Monastery. In the ninth century, Armenia regained its independence, leading to a period of prosperity. Sanahin Monastery and the nearby Haghpat Monastery date from this period. When I enter the monastery, I see an impressive complex with a mix of Armenian and Byzantine architectural styles. Sanahin was an important educational center and was renowned for its calligraphers.

Armenia - The 9thcentury Sanahin Monastery a UNESCO World Heritage site

The gavit, the front church, was added in the twelfth century. The space is enormous, much larger than the church building itself. The churches of Sanahin are built from light-colored basalt stones and have the characteristic Armenian cross-dome structure. Beautiful Armenian Orthodox music is played inside, creating a wonderful atmosphere. In the same village, there is a small museum dedicated to the influential brothers Anastas and Artem Mikoyan. One of the brothers designed the MiG jet fighter, the combat aircraft used by the Russians since World War II. Outside the museum stands a model of the plane, amusing to walk around. The museum itself is modest, but I think that by buying a ticket, I am helping with its upkeep. From Sanahin, we drive a short distance to Haghpat for the overnight stay. Tomorrow we will visit the monastery of the same name. From the hotel, I can see the Sanahin complex across the valley. Dinner is included in the evening, which means we can spend our last Armenian money on wine. There are worse things in life.