Armenia > In Gregory's Cellar

I wake up feeling quite well and much better. Just to be safe, I hold back a bit at the breakfast buffet. At half past eight, we leave Yerevan for the last time. Today we are driving to Goris, the southernmost town on this trip. Before we arrive there, we visit several sights along the way. The first stop is Khor Virap. This is located at the foot of Mount Ararat, very close to the Turkish border. The little church of Khor Virap stands out beautifully against the massive mountain behind it. Khor Virap means “deep pit” in Armenian. In the third century, King Tiridates had his assistant Gregory imprisoned in a deep pit when it was discovered that he was a Christian. At that time, Christianity was strictly forbidden in the Roman Empire and beyond. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned in the dark pit for thirteen years. Later, a small chapel and church were built on this spot in honor of Saint Gregory. When I enter the church, there is a steep staircase in the corner that leads to the pit. I descend via a vertical steel ladder, holding on tightly with my arms to climb down safely. I arrive in the 6.5-meter-deep space, barely four meters across. I can hardly imagine staying here for a long time without daylight. When I try to climb back up, it proves difficult. People keep coming down the stairs from above. A shout to tell them to stop helps.

Armenia - The small church of Khor Virap before Mount Ararat

I also climb the hill behind the Khor Virap church, which gives a nice overview. We continue to the wine village of Areni. Here we get an explanation about Armenian wine. After the tour, we also get to taste some wine. Although the tasting is free, we are offered several Armenian wines—seven different wines in total. Many of the wines from this region are sweeter, so you have to be a fan of that style. Near Areni village are the churches of Noravank. These churches are especially notable for their beautiful location in the gorge. In one church, a service is just beginning. A priest leads the prayer. I climb a bit up the hillside, giving me a wonderful view of the two churches and the rocks behind them.

Armenia - The two churches of Noravank surrounded by the mountains

We can have lunch at a roadside restaurant. The process is a bit unclear. I point to some potatoes, vegetables, and a sausage. These are served on a plate and briefly heated in a microwave. It tastes good. After lunch, we continue to Goris. To get there, we must cross the 2,100-meter-high Vorotan Pass. The winding road snakes through the rolling landscape. Yet I can’t manage to keep my eyes open and doze off occasionally. Traffic on the pass is light, so we reach the Goris region sooner than expected. We stop at Zorats Karer, also called the Stonehenge of Armenia. Hundreds of stones, tombstones, and menhirs are arranged in circles. The stone circles date back to prehistory and were placed thousands of years ago. We are at an altitude of over 1,700 meters. A strong, crisp wind blows between the stones. I walk around the site, take some photos, and quickly return to the warm bus. At the end of the afternoon, we drive to Goris. Clouds drift over the mountains, creating thick mist.

Armenia - The Stonehenge of Armenia Zorats Karer

Visibility is sometimes less than thirty meters. Our driver, Mateos, carefully navigates the bus along the road, driving very slowly. We safely arrive at the hotel in Goris just before six o’clock. Goris is a small town with limited dining options, so we had already indicated our meal preferences to the hotel in advance. At seven o’clock, a very good meal is ready. I eat Garni Yarikh, an eggplant stuffed with chicken, tomato, and cheese. Other travel groups have a more extensive menu; their dessert looks delicious. When I pay for the food and wine at the bar, I start talking to their guide. It turns out there are two desserts left. I am allowed to take them. I cut the cream puffs into pieces and share them with the group.