Uganda > A leopard!

At seven o’clock, I board Anthony’s boat again. This time, Patrick is the boat’s helmsman. Instead of heading upstream, this morning we travel downstream toward the delta of Lake Albert. This area is home to many special birds, including the rare shoebill (also called the shoe-billed stork). As soon as we set off, I see several groups of hippos in the water. Because of the early hour, they are still quite active.

Uganda - A typical African scene in Murchison Falls National Park

Several hippos play in the water. As the boat passes by, a dull thud suddenly sounds. The front left side of the boat lifts. We’ve hit a hippo just below the water surface. Patrick quickly tilts the motor up to prevent the propeller from hitting the animal. I imagine an angry hippo chasing us. The boat glides calmly onward, and the hippo dives deeper. I continue my journey. On the shore, various animals stand at the water’s edge. I see birds I spotted yesterday, along with several cranes, a saddle-billed stork, and different species of herons. A few large crocodiles lie resting on the bank. A little further on, two elephants are drinking water—a beautiful reflection in the Nile. As we approach the Nile delta, Patrick and Anthony scan for shoebills. The driver of another boat points out that he spotted one a bit further back. We head back successfully. The impressive large bird takes off and perches in the top of a tree. A shoebill can grow up to one and a half meters tall and looks somewhat prehistoric. It is not particularly beautiful, but very impressive

Uganda - An elephant on the Victoria Nile in Murchison Falls National Park

. At the end of the delta, I enter Lake Albert. Fishermen pull in their nets from small canoes. The water is almost completely calm, and pelicans reflect in it. Via another access point, we return to the delta area, this time heading upstream. Patrick asks me to sit further back so he can travel the fifteen kilometers back to the starting point at higher speed. He slows briefly for a large herd of elephants along the water—about thirty-five of them drinking at the shore. As the boat approaches, the calves are quickly protected in the middle of the group. Slowly, the herd moves off into the brush. Around noon, I return to camp. In the afternoon, I head out on another game drive in Murchison Falls National Park. Yesterday, the animals were gone by the time the second bus arrived, so today each vehicle takes a separate route. There is only one park ranger, however. Frank rides in one bus, while Henry, the ranger for today, joins me. Using the two-hour ferry, we cross the Nile again. It is still too early and too hot to spot animals, so I pause at the luxurious Paraa Safari Lodge for a drink on the terrace. The terrace offers a stunning view of the Nile. At three o’clock, the game drive begins. I tell Henry I want to see lions and leopards.

Uganda - A leopard climbs a tree to rest in the shade

As expected, he warns that this will be difficult. I see baboons and antelopes but don’t stop. Suddenly, Henry notices all the animals staring tensely in one direction. Following their gaze, he spots a predator in the tall grass. “A leopard,” he says. I struggle to follow the direction he’s pointing. Which tree exactly? As the leopard climbs into the tree, it comes into view. Though at a distance, it’s clearly visible. When it climbs higher, I lose sight of it. Henry can still see it. I take a close-up of the tree, and when I zoom in on Henry’s instruction, I see the leopard lying in the branches, its paws hanging over them. Incredible! For me, the game drive is already a success. Further along the route, I see relatively few animals. I watch a group of elephants, spot passing giraffes, and see monkeys crossing the road. The lions do not appear this afternoon. Just before seven, I return to the ferry. The last crossing is at seven o’clock, so I can’t miss it.