Uganda > Lost in Murchison Falls NP

Outside, it is still dark when the alarm goes off. By a quarter past six, coffee is already ready at the bar. I am running late and quickly drink a cup. The drivers have already left with the minibuses. They parked the buses at the front by the ferry to ensure we could catch the first crossing at seven o’clock.

Uganda - Minibuses cross the Nile by ferry en route to Murchison Falls National Park

Just before seven, I walk up to the ferry and can almost immediately board. On the far side of the Victoria Nile lies Murchison Falls National Park. We enter the park in two minibuses, with the roofs specially popped up so I can stand upright in the back and look over the plains. It’s a bit of a squeeze with the seat backs, though. George is the ranger today, riding in the front bus. He scans for special animals and relays any sightings to us in the rear bus. Soon, I see various antelopes, monkeys, giraffes, and a large herd of elephants.

Uganda - A Patas monkey among the branches

Driving as the second bus isn’t always easy. Every time I arrive, the animals have already moved on. It’s a shame that not every bus has its own ranger. I notice the first bus standing still near some bushes. I wonder what they see. A little later, when it’s my turn, I spot a female lion lying in the brush. She has a collar around her neck, most likely because she was tracked earlier that day. A little further on, an older male rests under some bushes. He’s difficult to see, but the many tire tracks leading up to the bushes give him away. It seems this is his usual spot. Eventually, I reach Lake Albert, where hippos rest in the water. It’s time to head back. We need to catch the twelve o’clock ferry to be on time for lunch and the afternoon program. But then things go wrong. The first bus with its guide drives a little too far ahead. When we reach a junction, it’s unclear which way they went. Both roads lead back to Paraa. The most likely route seems to be straight ahead. The road quickly narrows. After a few kilometers, it’s reduced to a mere track. Jampa skillfully navigates the bus through the bushes, but we’ve lost speed. There’s no time left for spotting animals. Ahead, there’s a puddle. Jampa drives through it, but it’s deeper than expected. The bus stalls in a twenty-centimeter-deep hole. The exhaust sputters in the water, and water flows in through the side door.

Uganda - A male kob rests among the tall grass

The bus is stuck. Jampa assesses the situation, engages 4x4 with extra gear, and slowly pulls the bus back onto dry ground. We applaud him. There’s little time to reflect—we drive quickly to the ferry. Time is pressing as we reach the main road. Slowly it becomes clear that we won’t make it. When the clock strikes twelve, I’m still not at the ferry. To make matters worse, we apparently missed a turn, driving away from the ferry instead of toward it. Finally, just before one o’clock, I reach the ferry. But it doesn’t operate at midday. The ranger offers his apologies, but I don’t think he really means it. Frank arranges a small boat to take me across, and Jampa follows later with the bus. Back at the campsite, my lunch is already ready, pre-ordered by phone. Half an hour later, I leave again for the afternoon program. The other group has been able to rest, but I haven’t. At the ferry harbor, I board a small boat for a trip along the Victoria Nile to Murchison Falls. Sunday welcomes me, and Anthony pilots the boat. The boat has about twenty seats. Since our group is small, everyone gets a side seat. Anthony assures me with a big smile that the boat is hippo-proof as we approach the first hippos on the opposite riverbank. Hippos rest in the water during the day and graze on land at night. One hippo stands on land. Anthony explains that this female is pregnant and therefore eats during the day.

Uganda - The Nile forces its way through the narrow gorge of Murchison Falls Uganda

As we approach, she plops into the water with a big splash. I follow the river eastward. Along the banks, there are many black-and-white kingfishers. The nervous little birds fly off as I approach. Some dive into the water in search of food. The Victoria Nile is rich in birds. Buffalos and antelopes cool off at the water’s edge, crocodiles rest on the bank, and numerous hippos float in the river. At the end of the boat trip, Murchison Falls comes into view: a narrow rocky gorge through which the Nile forces its way before plunging seventy meters down with a roar. Due to the strong current at the base, the boat cannot get too close. I am dropped off at the start of a trail—a narrow path along the riverbank. As I climb higher, the view of the waterfall becomes increasingly spectacular. The path is sometimes steep, and the sun is intense, making the climb exhausting. My water bottle quickly empties. Others also struggle with the heat. At the top, I am rewarded with a breathtaking view of the falls. Only here do I really appreciate the force of the Nile as it flows through the narrow opening. Remarkably, the waterfall has existed for centuries without eroding the rocks further. It is now past six o’clock. Jampa and Edwin wait with the minibuses. They drive me back to the campsite in about forty-five minutes. Outside, the sun sets and twilight falls.