
Home > Uganda > Encounter with the Gorilla > Travelogue day 11
July 24 August 15 2011 (23 days)
At night, it is noisy at the campsite. One—or maybe two—hippos graze among the cottages. Apparently, they were right next to my cottage, but I didn’t notice. After breakfast, I leave the campsite and turn right toward Lake Albert. The dirt road passes through several villages. I can hardly imagine that people can live here while wild animals roam so close by. We can’t drive too fast on the bumpy road. Livestock also roam freely along the way; cows and goats graze at the roadside. Many cyclists travel this road as well, some carrying large bundles of wood.
Sometimes the collected wood is tied in bundles more than two meters wide. Bicycles and motorcycles are a popular means of transport in Uganda. During a short stop along the route, Jampa cuts up the pineapples we bought earlier—delicious fresh fruit. A police officer stops on his motorcycle to ask if there’s a problem. He bursts out laughing when he sees all of us enjoying the pineapple. As the morning progresses, it gets increasingly hot. The people along the roadside seek out the shade more and more. The dusty dirt road doesn’t make it any easier. Every car kicks up a large cloud of dust that spreads over the villages. The bus becomes dustier and dustier as well. By the time I arrive in Hoima, everyone is covered in orange dust. Hoima is a busy provincial town. I pass through the center and drive to the Kontiki Lodge on the outskirts. I am immediately welcomed by the entire staff. “Hello, how are you?” It feels as if they haven’t seen guests in days. They insist on carrying my luggage to my cottage. Personally, I find this a bit over the top.
The lodge is spacious, with two horses grazing on the lawn and a swimming pool under construction at the side. The thatched cottages are large, and the shower has at least warm water. After lunch—goat and rice—I settle in the garden in the shade. I read the itinerary for the coming days and update my travel journal. A wonderfully relaxing afternoon. As the sun sets, I take a warm shower in the cottage. My stomach starts to rumble, and within half an hour I’m repeatedly visiting the toilet. Could it have been the goat from lunch? Other travelers have also experienced digestive issues to varying degrees over the past few days. At the beginning of the evening, I go to the market in Hoima. Frank, Edwin, and Jampa guide us in small groups among the locals. People buy their evening meals at the night market, right after work. Food is displayed on the ground. It’s crowded, and in the dark it can be tricky to navigate. Frank is unfazed. He gathers his meal from various stalls, letting us taste cassava, roll-eggs, and even a cow’s hoof. I politely decline, still feeling unwell. In the lodge that evening, I only have a small soup. Perhaps it’s for the best that they forgot my soup and served it with the main meal for the others. I had originally planned to go to a disco in Hoima, but I skip it. I go to bed. Sleep.