Uganda > Visit to the chimpanzees

On the shore of Lake Victoria, Evelyn welcomes me. She explains what we will be doing at Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary. This reserve cares for chimpanzees that have been rescued from captivity. They can no longer survive in the wild, but on this island, they can roam safely. The population is too large (or the island too small) for the chimpanzees to provide their own food, so the 45 chimpanzees are fed daily.

Uganda - A Pied Kingfisher in the harbor of Entebbe on Lake Victoria

This makes it an ideal opportunity for tourists to visit them. Entrance fees help maintain the sanctuary. I board a small fiberglass boat with a simple roof and am handed a life jacket, which I am asked to wear. Sigh! Two heavy outboard motors hang off the back. Henry, my boatman, maneuvers the boat at full throttle over the water. The front often rises and bounces hard on the waves. In about three-quarters of an hour, I cover the 23 kilometers to the island. At the dock, Philip, one of the park rangers, is already waiting. In the modest visitor center, he explains the creation of the sanctuary and its residents. He also notes that the chimpanzees are still wild and unpredictable.

Uganda - A chimpanzee waits for food

A large electrified fence separates them from the visitor area. At feeding time, I walk to the viewing platform. The chimpanzees come running loudly. Tourists at the platform signal that food is coming. Each ape finds a spot, with the dominant ones clearly in front. They look at me; I look at them. I am struck by how different they look. There are old gray chimpanzees, young chimps, light faces, and very dark ones. The youngest play by doing somersaults, while the older ones mainly watch for the food. One dominant ape becomes impatient and throws a stone at Ranger Philip—miss! Fortunately, the caretakers arrive with the food.

Uganda - Feeding can be observed from a raised platform on Ngamba Island Uganda

Each chimp quickly gathers the thrown fruit, trying to build the largest stash. They protect their reserves from potential thieves. Some even raise their claws, signaling “give me that mango!” Once the food is gone, the chimpanzees retreat to the bushes to eat their stash. Back at the visitor center, I spot several birds and a large iguana. When it sees me, it quickly dives into the lake. The return trip by boat is less pleasant. The wind is against us, and large waves splash over the boat. Henry hands out raincoats, but they do little to keep me dry. As we approach Entebbe, the waves calm, and I can dry off in the sun. I have lunch at a beachside café on the shores of Lake Victoria, a pleasant spot to eat. At the entrance, I am checked for weapons—a security measure following the attacks during last year’s World Cup final between the Netherlands and Spain in Kampala, which left 74 dead. After lunch, late in the afternoon, I drive to Kampala city, less than 40 kilometers away.

Uganda - Among the locals at the market in Kampala

Traffic speed depends on the congestion. In the capital, traffic can completely grind to a halt. Edwin navigates the bus through the busy streets. There are hardly any traffic lights, and he often squeezes the bus between lines of waiting cars, clearly knowing exactly how big the vehicle is. I arrive in the city center without any damage. I step out at the local market, a typical African market filled with small, fully loaded stalls. The paths are narrow, and goods are stacked high, sometimes forming a complete canopy. The vendors look surprised at first but immediately very friendly. “Where are you from?” they ask. Some even forget to advertise their goods. Others rest in their stalls and glance up as I pass. I am struck by how stalls selling the same type of goods are concentrated together—an entire street of black shoe stalls and onion stalls side by side. Before heading to the hotel, I visit a bank to exchange money. At the first bank, there is a long line. I am guided to the business line but sent back shortly by another employee. It’s slow going. A nearby exchange office works faster and even offers a better rate: 3,700 shillings for one euro. Instantly, I’m a millionaire. The cash is a thick stack of 10,000-shilling notes held together with a rubber band, which I tuck loosely into my pocket. At the edge of the city, I arrive at Cassia Lodge, a luxury accommodation on a hill overlooking the suburbs. I take a dip in the cool pool, which offers views of Kampala and Lake Victoria. What more could you want? In the evening, I dine on the hotel terrace while Kampala transitions from evening into night.