Uganda > Tree-climbing lions

I break down my tent. After breakfast, I leave the Bush campsite and travel south toward the southernmost point of Queen Elizabeth National Park—a drive of just over two hours. Although I’m officially still driving through the park, I see far fewer animals here. Occasionally, a monkey makes an appearance. I pass several villages, with plenty of people living along the way. Roadwork is also in full swing: the grassy edges are cut manually with machetes, and heavy machinery is used to replace bridges. This work must be completed before the rainy season begins. At one of the detours, Jampa looks concerned out the window—a flat tire! The rear right tire has given out.

Uganda - Camping with a tent along the border river between Congo and Uganda

The vehicle is quickly jacked up, and the spare tire is mounted. This tire is slightly smaller than the original one. Apparently, this isn’t a problem for driving, but it does make it tricky to get the flat tire back under the bus, as it hangs low above the road. As we continue, the spare tire regularly scrapes the ground, but Jampa doesn’t seem too concerned. By midday, I arrive at Isasha. In this part of the national park, lions have learned to climb trees, giving them a better view and a cooling breeze. I set up my tent on the bank of the small border river with Congo. It’s a primitive campsite in the middle of nature, with a simple pit toilet and two open-air showers. On the other side of the border, monkeys leap through the treetops, while hippos rest in the river. Since wild animals can also visit the campsite, it is absolutely forbidden to leave food in the tent. In the afternoon, I go in search of lions. They mainly climb the fig trees, which have outward-leaning trunks. I first explore the northern circuit.

Uganda - An elephant looks threateningly at our bus

Ranger Ben notes that it’s still very hot and that few lions are spotted in this area. I do see a topi antelope, which closely resembles a hartebeest. Late in the afternoon, I take the southern circuit, where the chances of spotting lions in the trees are much higher. I move from fig tree to fig tree; these trees are easier for the lions to climb due to their shape. Unfortunately, I don’t find any lions in the trees. Slightly disappointed, I head back to the campsite. Just before arriving, I encounter a large herd of elephants. They are standing in the middle of the path, moving through the bushes. Jampa turns off the engine and lets the elephants pass. Approaching closer could lead to a confrontation. It’s an impressive sight to see the animals pulling branches from the shrubs from some thirty meters away. In the evening, I have dinner at the canteen by the military post, which is also responsible for border security. Since I am staying beyond this point, two soldiers are present at my campsite—“just to protect us.” I’m not entirely sure what we are being protected from, but I’m fine with it. I head to bed early.