Uganda > Colossal rhinos

Today is set to be a long travel day to Murchison Falls. In the dark, I pack my luggage. It’s still before six o’clock, and the generator isn’t on yet. Shortly after, I drive off the campsite. My breakfast pack is already waiting on my seat in the bus. The travel day isn’t easy for José. She is still stiff from her fall and has taken painkillers. She sits at the front of the bus, where the passenger seat provides the most support and the bumps in the road are least bothersome.

Uganda - Only ten rhinos remain in Uganda protected by rangers from poachers

As I drive out of Jinja over the large dam toward Kampala, I close my eyes. While I sleep, we take the northern bypass around Kampala and turn right toward Nakitoma. Around 11:30, we arrive at the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. This reserve is currently the only area in Uganda where wild white rhinos exist. Uganda once had thousands of rhinos, but large-scale poaching caused them to become extinct. The sanctuary is working to establish a new rhino population, with the goal of eventually reintroducing them into protected natural areas in Uganda. The rhinos in the park are monitored and protected by rangers. So far, four new rhinos have been born in the park, bringing the total to ten. With a ranger, I visit the rhinos. Although the animals are fairly accustomed to tourists, I am advised to climb a tree in case of an attack. When I approach a group of three rhinos, there is no sign of aggression. The colossal animals are simply resting in the shade. Obama, one of the two young rhinos but already weighing around a thousand kilos, stands up, looks around, and lies down again. It’s an impressive sight to be able to get within thirty meters of these beasts.

Uganda - A rhino in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Obama is a cross between a Kenyan father and an American mother rhino, which explains his name. After lunch in Masari, I continue toward Murchison Falls National Park. Ten years ago, this area was still considered unsafe. Rebels from the north fought in the park and even harassed tourists. Now, the domestic conflict is a thing of the past, and Murchison Falls National Park is a remarkable natural area along the Victoria Nile. Immediately after passing the entrance gate, I spot mostly baboons on the road. Warthogs and antelopes are hidden in the dense underbrush. By sunset, I arrive at Red Chili Rest Camp. I am glad to stop driving and reach the camp. I stay in a simple hut with a comfortable bed. Sanitary facilities are in a separate building. In the evening, warthogs roam the campsite in search of food, while baboons try to open the trash bins. While sitting in the bar, a fellow traveler reports that a hippo is grazing—amusing, of course. Soon, it becomes clear that a massive hippo is indeed grazing among the huts and tents. Impressive! At night, when I go to the toilet, I first check the surroundings carefully with my flashlight. The coast is clear!