New Zealand > To Queenstown

During breakfast, the weather seems better than yesterday. The forecast even predicts some sunshine today. Could the trip still go ahead? At least, we haven’t received any news to the contrary. Since the potential flight isn’t until half past eleven, we spend the morning visiting the Kiwi Experience Center. Kiwis are flightless birds found only in New Zealand. Because they are endangered—especially young kiwis—they are taken in as chicks and released into the wild once they reach adulthood. Only about five percent of young kiwis survive in the wild. Free-roaming dogs and feral cats pose the biggest threat to them. In our opinion, the entrance ticket is overpriced, but it probably supports the project. Since kiwis are nocturnal, the two kiwis present are kept in a dark room. We are advised to let our eyes adjust to the darkness. For now, we stare into the dark space, trying to make out what could be the silhouette of a kiwi. Slowly, our vision improves. One bird is sitting right in front of us, pecking at the ground. They are really strange creatures—poor eyesight, cannot fly, but a strong sense of smell. When threatened, they can only run away. There are only about sixty thousand kiwis left in New Zealand. The species we are observing, the Riro Kiwi, is even rarer, with only around five hundred in the wild. The rest of the Experience Center focuses on the Franz Josef Glacier. Exhibits explain how a glacier forms and how it is under pressure from global warming. A staff member asks if we were able to see the kiwis properly. “Shall I show them to you?” she offers, carrying a special red flashlight. She assures us the kiwis cannot see the red light. In the beam, we watch the birds digging in the ground. They remain fascinating, odd creatures. At half past ten, we go to the helihike office. We still haven’t received any news. The girl at the desk disappoints us: the wind on the glacier is too strong. No hikes will take place today, and she doesn’t expect any tomorrow either. “It rains quite often here in Franz Josef,” she apologizes. More than five meters of rain falls annually. We get our money back. When we mention that we are heading toward Queenstown, she emphasizes that we must stop at the Blue Pool, which is a very beautiful spot. Following her tip, we set off. Queenstown is at least a five-hour drive away. We drive back toward the Fox Glacier. The glacier and the village of the same name are completely shrouded in clouds. It is raining here. We continue through the mountains toward the town of Haast. Just past Haast, in Mount Aspiring National Park, we stop at the Roaring Billy Falls.

New Zealand - The clear water of the Blue Hole en route to Queenstown

A little further on is the Thunder Creek Falls, a 30-meter-high waterfall recommended in the travel guide. Finally, we also visit the Fantail Falls, about a ten-minute walk from the main road. Just beyond the Haast Pass, we spot a sign for the Blue Pool and quickly park the car. The Blue Pool is reached via a half-hour walk. The stream lives up to its name: deep blue water flows beneath the suspension bridge. It’s a stunning sight. Some people venture into the cold glacier meltwater wearing wetsuits. We are about halfway to Queenstown, with roughly two and a half hours of driving left. We pass Lakes Wanaka and Hawea. On this side of the pass, the sun is shining, and the mineral-rich lakes gleam a beautiful blue in the sunlight. We are puzzled by the road signage to Queenstown. The distance on the signs differs by more than fifty kilometers from our navigation. How can that be? The mystery is solved at the next junction. The longer, main route goes left, while our navigation instructs us to turn right over the Cardrona Pass. This would be faster, so we decide to follow it. The winding mountain road takes us higher and higher. Once we pass the highest point, Queenstown is already visible far below in the valley. We descend through sharp hairpin bends and enter the town around six o’clock.

New Zealand - The center of Queenstown

Our hotel is in the center. Paid parking only applies until six, so we can park right in front. Tomorrow morning, we’ll be on our way again early. Across from the hotel, we order a beer on the terrace and end up having dinner there as well. Afterward, we stroll through the lively center of Queenstown, which consists mainly of tour agencies offering various activities, interspersed with souvenir shops and restaurants.