Fiji > New Year's Eve in Fiji

The last day of the year has arrived. The weather seems good enough today for a sailing trip to the island of Tivua off the coast near Nadi. We take it easy at breakfast and are ready to walk to the adjacent InterContinental Fiji hotel for the pick-up at 8:30. Just then, the phone rings in our villa. The pick-up is actually scheduled for 8:30. We had thought it was 8:50. We should have been there at 8:20. We quickly head to the InterContinental Fiji hotel. When we arrive at the reception, the shuttle has just left. What now? The receptionist calls the tour operator. They say they will not return—we were too late. The receptionist draws a map showing how we can reach the boat with our own car. We quickly return to our resort and get in the car. The navigation shows that we will arrive just under fifteen minutes before the boat departs. Hopefully, the roads aren’t too busy. After forty-five minutes of driving, we enter Nadi. Here we turn left toward Port Denarau. The boat departs from this peninsula. On the island, it’s not immediately clear where we should go. We ask several times. At the harbor, we park the car and hurry to the pier. With ten minutes to spare, we board the Ra Marama, a three-masted ship. I estimate there are about eighty people on board—slightly more than I expected. I am welcomed with coffee and cake, accompanied by the frequent greeting, “Bula.” At ten o’clock, the mooring lines are cast off, and the sailing ship leaves the harbor. Good thing we made it! The weather is fine, and the sea is calm—a perfect day to enjoy on an island. The sailing is less romantic than expected. The ship sails under motor for about ninety minutes in a straight line to the island. The jib is hoisted, presumably mostly for show. The trip is still enjoyable. The crew sings songs on board. We approach the island of Tivua. I estimate the island is less than two hundred meters in size. There are trees and thatched huts on the island, and around it lies a paradisiacal white sand beach.

Fiji - The two ships that bring tourists to Tivua Island

This is exactly how you imagine a Bounty-style island. The boat docks at the pier, and I walk onto the island. Under one of the shelters, there is a beanbag—a perfect spot to relax. We put down our belongings, put on our swimsuits, and run into the clear blue sea. Wonderful. I let the waves move me back and forth. Although two other tourist boats are moored on the small island, everyone seems to have found their own space. I walk to the end of the pier, put on my fins and snorkel mask, and jump into the water. Around me, I see coral, mostly colorless, which makes the colorful fish and bright blue starfish stand out even more. Back on land, the lunch buffet is ready—bread, salad, and various meats. The weather is beautiful today, and everything on the island is well organized. The sun is strong, so I try to stay in the shade. Under the thatched roof, I enjoy the beauty around me. In the afternoon, we take a ride on the glass-bottom boat. The coral is struggling due to the high seawater temperatures and is still recovering from the 2016 typhoon. Before the three-masted ship departs again, I take a walk around the island. The tide is just coming in. At 3:15, the ship leaves the island and sails back to Port Denarau. The crew plays guitar and sings on the return journey. As an end-of-year tradition, they cover each other with a kind of talcum powder, which is supposed to bring luck. The captain continues playing his guitar, letting the scene unfold. It’s clear that the crew sails to this island daily, but their enthusiasm does not show any signs of routine.

Fiji - The small island of Tivua

Fun. Back on the main island, we take a walk around the shops at Denarau. This is clearly a tourist area. The Hard Rock Café Denarau is already preparing for New Year’s Eve. The stage is being set up, and table reservations are arranged. We order a drink and then drive back to our own accommodation for our private New Year’s celebration. At the restaurant, tables are already set outside, and the stage for the band is ready. Just as we sit down, it starts to sprinkle. The staff hurriedly move the tables under the covered terrace. A band comes and leaves after a few songs. We learn from a waitress that there was a double booking, and the band had to move to another hotel. The program continues with a crab race, limbo dancing, and a kind of musical chairs. The main band of the evening is scheduled to start at 11 p.m., but at 11 there is no band. Around 11:30, the band members slowly trickle in, much to the frustration of the resort owner. There also appear to be technical problems; no music is being played yet.

Fiji - The new year arrives in Fiji 12 hours earlier than in the Netherlands

Many guests have already gone to the beach. When fireworks are set off at nearby resorts at midnight, the band still hasn’t started the first song. It feels a bit like a fiasco. A shame, because it’s very special to celebrate New Year’s in shorts on the beach. We call it a night at 12:30. The band is finally playing, and music can also be heard from across the bay. Tomorrow morning, however, we have to wake up early for attempt number two of the fishing trip.