Pakistan > On the Hopper Glacier

Before seven o’clock, I sit down for breakfast in the hotel garden. Today is the last time here. After three nights, we leave Karimabad and continue driving along the Karakoram Highway. Immediately after leaving, we stop to refuel and to adjust the tire pressure. I would have expected the drivers to have had enough time for that in the past few days? It doesn’t take very long at all. On the opposite side of the Hunza River, we turn off and enter the Nagar Valley. Where the Nagar River flows into the Hunza River, a group of gypsies live in tents. They are searching for gold in the river, Yassir explains. The children come over curiously. The Nagar Valley is strikingly green. Trees grow everywhere in the valley and the fields are cultivated. The green valley with the high snow-covered mountain peaks in the background is beautiful to see. The sun shines and there is hardly any cloud cover around the high mountains. At the end of the valley, we arrive at the Hopper Glacier. From the parking lot, we walk to a viewpoint. The glacier is covered with a gray layer of stones and gravel. This natural top layer reflects the sunlight and prevents the glacier from melting faster, but a white glacier is certainly nicer to look at. Behind the glacier lies a second glacier, the Barpu Glacier. This ice mass is not visible from the viewpoint. From the viewpoint, we descend toward the ice. The descent is longer than I initially estimated. I carefully descend the sandy path. At the glacier ice, it’s clear the glacier used to contain much more ice.

Pakistan - The view of the outflows of the Hopper glacier

Along the mountain walls, the old wear marks are visible. Between the stones and boulders, some blocks of ice are visible. This glacier is less impressive than the glacier we saw earlier this week. I have to take the same route back—a steep climb. Slowly I climb up again. I place my feet carefully. The path is steep, and I don’t want to slip. I reach the top safely. Before lunch, we make a detour to a viewpoint in the mountains. From here, there is a view of the snow-covered mountain ranges and both glaciers. On the narrow road, grass is being harvested. The grass is piled high on a tractor. We can’t pass, so there’s nothing to do but wait. We can walk around it. We don’t walk right alongside the tractor. The farmers warn us of a hornet’s nest. We walk around the nest via the slope. From the road, I see the Lady Finger and the Hunza Peak. Behind me are the two glaciers. What a beautiful sight. The tractor is now loaded. Unfortunately for the farmers, the load is hanging crookedly. When they want to drive off, all the load falls off the cart. They have to start over. When we return to the parking lot, lunch is ready. Perfect timing. Yak meat, vegetables, fries, and pieces of pizza—a great lunch. At half past one, we leave the Hopper Glacier area. We drive out of the Nagar Valley

Pakistan - Attabad lake formed in 2010 after a severe landslide

. When we return to the Karakoram Highway, I see Altit Fort perched on the rocks. From this side, the strategic location is clearly visible. On the rocks along the side of the road, there are Buddhist rock carvings. These date back to before the Hunza region became Islamic. A little further along the Karakoram Highway, we reach Attabad Lake. This lake was formed in 2010 by a massive landslide. The landslide blocked the flow of the Hunza River. Behind the dam, a large lake formed. Only after five months did the river water spill over the new barrier. Villages and nineteen kilometers of the Karakoram Highway disappeared underwater. The population of Upper Hunza was completely cut off from the rest of Hunza. Only in 2015, when five tunnels were opened with the help of the Chinese, was traffic possible again. The water of Attabad Lake has a clear blue color. On the northern side of the lake, recreation has developed. Several restaurants are located here. Boats can be rented, and there is a cable car. I only order coffee. Just past the lake, we arrive in Gulmit. This is also the location of the hotel for the coming nights. At the reception, I already order dinner. This increases the chance that we can eat at seven o’clock. Afterwards, I go to the room and lie down on the bed for a bit. At seven o’clock, the food is neatly served to the rooms. The marinated chicken with naan bread tastes good.