Pakistan > Islamabad and Rawalpindi

Because of the time difference, it is difficult to determine exactly when the new day begins. In Pakistan, the new day has already started. We flew over the coast of the Black Sea, Georgia, and Azerbaijan, then over the Caspian Sea. Above Uzbekistan, we veered slightly south. Via Kabul, we set course for Islamabad. Around quarter to four in the morning, we land at Islamabad’s international airport. The customs procedure goes surprisingly smoothly. I show my visas and get a new stamp in my passport. The luggage takes longer to arrive, especially mine. My bag is one of the last of the group to appear on the belt. Another traveler has more trouble — probably someone took a similar bag by mistake. Fortunately, it quickly turns out that person was also in our group. In the arrival hall, I meet Willem, who is the trip leader for Pakistan. He leads us to the bus. In the dark, we drive about three quarters of an hour to the hotel in Islamabad. It’s quiet on the streets in the middle of the night. I see the Pakistan monument lit up on a hill. The city looks remarkably green. Around half past five, we arrive at the Hillview Hotel in Islamabad. The rooms are already available. Everyone quickly gets their room keys. I take a shower and then crawl back into bed for a few hours of sleep. At nine o’clock the alarm goes off. I still managed to sleep well for three hours. On the ground floor, the breakfast buffet is ready. After breakfast, we explore Islamabad by bus. The first stop is the Faisal Mosque in Margalla Hills National Park. This mosque is one of the largest in the world and the largest in Asia. Construction began in 1976 after a $28 million subsidy from Saudi King Faisal, after whom the mosque is named.

Pakistan - The new airport of Istanbul

Without a typical dome, the mosque is shaped like a Bedouin tent and surrounded by four minarets, each 79 meters high. Via the broad stairs, I reach the mosque’s ablution area. Our group seems to be an attraction here. Several people want to take photos with us, others take pictures secretly. I can laugh about that. The mosque itself is only open during midday prayer. Through the window, I see the enormous prayer hall, which can accommodate 10,000 worshippers. Outside the mosque, in the park, there is even more space to pray. Rhesus monkeys roam the mosque grounds. One monkey targets a visitor’s bag. When the monkey runs toward her, she throws the bag away in fear. The monkey deftly empties the food from the bag. It has done this before. After the mosque, we drive to the Daman-e-Koh hilltop on the city’s edge. From the viewpoint, about 200 meters above the city, there is a view over Islamabad. On the far right, I see the Faisal Mosque and the government center on the other side. I’m surprised at how few tall buildings Islamabad has. Only a few high buildings rise above the center. In the distance stands the Pepsi Cola building. The Centaurus shopping mall with three tall towers is also visible. One tower displays a huge Pepsi advertisement. These towers are among the tallest in the city. Behind the government district lies the Pakistan monument on a hill, our next destination.

Pakistan - The monument was built to symbolize the unity of the Pakistani people

We drive there in about half an hour. The monument was built to symbolize the unity of the Pakistani people. The four large petals each represent one of Pakistan’s four main cultures: the Punjabi, the Baloch, the Sindhi, and the Pakhtun. Originally, Pakistan was part of British India together with India, Bangladesh, and Myanmar. Pakistan was founded on August 14, 1947, to give Indian Muslims their own state. It was then part of the British Commonwealth. In 1956, it became a fully independent republic. The split with India caused a refugee crisis, with Muslims moving to Pakistan and Hindus to India. The Kashmir region remains disputed, with both countries claiming it. For lunch, we go to the Centaurus Mall with the Pepsi advertisement. On the fourth floor are several eateries, perfect for lunch. Islamabad is a relatively new city. Construction started in 1960, and in 1967 it was declared the new capital. The city borders the old city of Rawalpindi. The closer we get to Rawalpindi’s Old Town, the busier and more chaotic the streets become. Traffic jams. Mopeds squeeze between waiting cars. It’s better to get out and walk. We stroll past stalls where everything is sold. People look friendly as we pass. Almost no one objects to photos, and some Pakistanis want photos with us. The narrow streets are tight.

Pakistan - The chaotic market of Rawalpindi

Scooters and motorcycles pass through alleys barely a meter wide, paying little attention to pedestrians. For their safety, everyone steps aside. We wander through the Bara and Moti bazaars. It is remarkable how lively it is, but the exhaust fumes and trash on the ground are shocking. Watch your step to avoid holes and protruding objects. In the souq, we visit the shrine of Shah Chan Charagh, a descendant of the Prophet Mohammed through Imam Musa Kazim. This memorial belongs to the Shiite branch of Islam. Shiites believe that the Prophet’s son-in-law, Ali, was Mohammed’s rightful successor, while Sunnis believe it was Mohammed’s friend and father-in-law, Abu Bakr. Further on, we visit the Markazi Jamia Masjid, a Sunni mosque. When we want to return, traffic in a narrow street is completely blocked. A taxi squeezes through where there is no space. Before it becomes dangerous, we decide to turn back. We return to the bus via another route. It feels like a breath of fresh air to have space to walk again. It’s late afternoon by now. During the evening rush hour arriving back at the hotel in Islamabad, it’s no longer possible to eat at the planned 6 p.m. We postpone by an hour. At Kabul Restaurant on the street corner, we eat on the terrace. Some travelers skip dinner and go to bed early. The meat and chicken skewers, vegetables, and naan bread taste good. After dinner, I quickly go to bed. It was a long day, and I have to get up early again tonight.