Pakistan > My birthday at 4,650 meters altitude

I wake up on my birthday. On my phone, I’ve already received several congratulations. Friends had realized that in Pakistan, I celebrate my birthday three hours earlier. In the breakfast room, I also get congratulations from the fellow travelers. Yesterday I already gave my breakfast order: French toast and an omelet. It turns out to be two plates — an omelet with toast and two slices of French toast. I had expected my omelet on the toast. Others also receive larger portions than expected. Quite a bit is left over. Tomorrow, I’ll have to pay better attention. At eight o’clock, we leave the Silk Route Lodge in Gulmit for a trip to the last stretch of the Karakoram Highway. This is the border with China, at an altitude of 4,650 meters. Along the way, we have a magnificent view of the mountains along the highway. With every curve, the view changes. Just before Passu, we stop briefly. Here is a beautiful view of the glacier with the same name.

Pakistan - View of Passu glacier from the Karakoram Highway

Also in this village is the apricot cake baker. One vehicle drives up the bumpy path. Because it’s my birthday, I get to come along to pick up the cake. The order was placed in advance. The cakes just need to be finished baking. With three cakes in the car, we continue on. The route to the border has several checkpoints. At some, the barrier is simply open; at others, forms must be shown. We’re allowed to drive through everywhere. About fifty kilometers before the border, we enter Khunjerab National Park. Immediately in the park, the road starts to climb steeply. Using hairpin bends, we quickly gain height. When we arrive at 4,650 meters, we reach the Chinese border. The cars are parked and I walk the last stretch to the actual border. The border guard doesn’t mind photos being taken.

Pakistan - The Karakoram Highway ends at the border crossing with China at 4650 meters

By the large letters “I love Pakistan” it’s time to enjoy the cake. I have the honor of cutting the cake. A beautiful and special place to celebrate my birthday. We walk back to the cars and drive the route back. Just outside the national park, lunch is ready. The lunch had been ordered earlier. That’s a good thing because the small restaurant is busy. All tables are occupied mostly by Pakistani tourists on vacation in the Hunza region.

Pakistan - Having a birthday at the Chinese border and allowed to cut the cake

Various dishes come to the table with chicken, fish, and vegetables. It’s now three o’clock and everyone is hungry. The food tastes great. The dishes are placed on the table right at the kitchen exit. Because of this, sometimes people on the other side of the table miss out. Luckily, there are enough dishes. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at two suspension bridges. The first suspension bridge crosses fast-flowing water from Passu Lake. The planks have gaps between them. I walk a bit onto the bridge. A little further lies the Hussaini Suspension Bridge — a much larger suspension bridge of 193 meters over the Hunza River.

Pakistan - Careful because the beams dont touch each other

Here, too, the wooden beams have gaps. I carefully walk across the bridge, holding onto the steel cables with one hand. I can’t remember ever crossing a suspension bridge so cautiously. On the other side, there’s a strong wind. I have to hold my sunglasses tight. I dare not take my phone out on the bridge to take photos. It might just disappear into the swirling water of the Hunza River below me. Next to the bridge is a zipline. People slide over the river on a cable to go back from the other side. Some travel companions give it a try. From the suspension bridge, it’s only a short distance back to the hotel. I quickly order something to eat. Because I had lunch rather late, I order soup. When the food is served, it turns out to be a great choice.