Pakistan > The forts in the Hunza Valley

I didn’t sleep very well last night. Maybe precisely because the days in Karimabad are less intense, I had trouble falling asleep. At eight o’clock, I join for breakfast. I’m the last to arrive. Tea, bread, and an egg. After breakfast, we drive a short distance to Altit Fort. The old fort, and especially the Shikari Tower, is more than 1100 years old. The Altit Fort was inhabited for about three hundred years by the rulers of the Hunza Valley. Later, they moved to the newer Baltit Fort. The guide takes us through the fort, showing the kitchen and the living and sleeping quarters. From the roof of the fort, we have a beautiful view over the valley and the snow-capped mountain peaks. In the newer part of the fort, built by the British, the guide suddenly says goodbye and rushes off. The next group is waiting. From Altit, we drive back to Karimabad. At the upper side of the village lies Baltit Fort. From the parking lot and ticket office, there’s still a steep climb to the entrance of the fort.

Pakistan - The old Altit fort lies on a strategic rocky point

The fort was founded in the eighth century. The Mirs (rulers) of Hunza lived in the fort until 1945, after which they moved to a new and more modern palace in Karimabad. The Baltit Fort was left empty and fell into disrepair. In the early 1990s, a renovation program started to restore the fort. Since 1996, it has been a museum. Here, too, a guide takes us through the walled palace. The kings had a special throne on the roof from which they could overlook Karimabad. They also used ice from the glaciers to keep food cool. Nowadays, these glaciers lie more than six kilometers from Baltit Fort. The tour ends in the reception room. Since we have a little time before lunch is served, I go with a small group to have coffee at the Mountain Cup café. This is the same café we visited yesterday.

Pakistan - The imposing Baltit fort in Karimabad

At half past twelve, a traditional lunch is served. We sit on the floor on cushions with low tables. Several local dishes come to the table. This time, not rice with chicken, but Chap Shuro, a kind of pizza; Burutz Berikutz with cheese filling; and Mulida, a pasta with spinach. For the last stop of the day, we drive to Ganish, a thousand-year-old historic site. It was the first settlement along the Silk Road in the Hunza Valley. Ganish has several old watchtowers, traditional mosques with beautiful woodcarvings, old houses, and a water reservoir. Travelers along the Silk Road could stay here overnight.

Pakistan - Ganish was the first settlement in Hunza along the Silk Road

During a flood in the 19th century, part of the village was destroyed. Also, some old houses were demolished in the 1970s to make way for the Karakoram Highway. In the afternoon, we drive to Eagles Nest—the nickname for Duiker Hill. From this hill at 3,300 meters altitude, the entire Hunza Valley can be seen, as well as the snow-capped peaks of the mountain giants. The sun still shines on Golden Peak, Diran Peak, and Rakaposhi. Behind us is the Ladies Finger, a sharp rocky peak completely out of the clouds. The last rays of the sun light up the mountain tops. A beautiful sight. When the sun is fully set, we descend again. The drivers drop us off in the center of Karimabad. At Pamir Pizza, I order the “special pizza.” Since I ate a lot this afternoon, I order the smallest size.