Pakistan > Spectacular route to Shimshal

This morning we can take it easy. We don’t leave until half past nine. The mountain pass to Shimshal is narrow and cars cannot pass each other, so there is one-way traffic. In the morning, traffic from Shimshal descends the mountain first. From half past nine, we can drive up. Before we leave, I take a long warm shower. We will spend the coming night in a simple lodging. I certainly don’t expect hot water there. We leave Gulmit and drive towards Passu. I start to recognize the road here. We pass the Hussaini suspension bridge, the turnoff to Borith Lake, and just before Passu we pass the bakery that sells cakes. Just past the village, we take the turnoff to Shimshal — an unpaved path. For many years, the region was isolated. There was no road to the village in the valley. Only at the beginning of this century did it become possible to reach Shimshal by vehicle. A 54-kilometer-long road was built through the mountains. Because of the steep mountains, building the road was not easy. It was certainly not possible to make the road wider than a few meters. Yassir advises people with a fear of heights to sit on the left side. Until the bridge, the valley is on the left side. After the bridge, it is on the right. The second section has deep chasms. Today I sit in the car with Malik. He drives carefully over the rocky road.

Pakistan - The narrow road to Shimshal runs along deep cliffs

Especially in the curves, he has to watch closely not to steer too far out or hit the rock wall. Everything goes well. He jokes that it’s good I’m in the first car. The other cars are driving in the dust. The valley we drive through is breathtakingly beautiful. Nothing is an exaggeration about the challenging route. The car barely fits on the road. In some places, stones have crumbled away. Malik carefully avoids these spots. The first bridge we pass is not the bridge yet. The deck of the suspension bridge moves with the weight of the car. It should all hold. Further on, we come to the larger bridge. We get out and walk across the bridge, which gives an opportunity to take photos of the cars crossing. This bridge also sways noticeably as cars pass. After the bridge, the road climbs steeply. I see a deep chasm beside me. From the other side, a car approaches. That can’t be possible? There are tourists in the car as well. On a slightly wider section, one car is pulled completely against the rocks. Then our group can pass. Apparently, another car is coming. They also find a spot here to pass safely.

Pakistan - Vehicles carefully drive over the suspension bridge

The mountains, the valley, and the view are magnificent. So rugged and wild. After about three hours, we leave the steep mountains and drive more along the riverbed. We still haven’t reached Shimshal. In the distance, the first simple houses appear. Mostly built from stacked stones. The yards are also enclosed by stone walls to keep cows, sheep, and goats inside the fence. Because of the yard fences, the road through the village is bordered by stone walls on both sides. The vehicles barely fit through. Especially at the bends, it’s necessary to watch carefully. Passing oncoming traffic is also difficult here. Fortunately, there is hardly any traffic in Shimshal. From the fields, people wave to us and some children look up surprised. About 1,900 people live in this extremely remote location. It is said that people settled here already in the fifteenth century. At that time, they were much more self-reliant. On the other side of the village, an old footpath leads to China. However, the border is still many tens of kilometers away. At two o’clock, we arrive at the guesthouse. Lunch is ready. We quickly sit down at the tables. Rice, chicken, yak, and vegetables. Finally, two plates of fries arrive — a tasty addition.

Pakistan - Simple houses form the village of Shimshal

After lunch, we take a walk through the village of Shimshal. Many houses are primitive and the doors and windows close poorly. Not good facilities for a place that can be extremely cold in winter. Cows and goats stand among the stacked stone walls. It’s a special place to stay. In this region, local alcohol is made with apricot flavor — a kind of arak. A travel companion ordered a small bottle. Everyone takes a sip. Opinions vary. I don’t find it very special or tasty. Dinner starts with soup, followed by rice, noodles, chicken, and yak meat. Fries are served here too. They only come after everyone has finished eating. Willem has some bad news. The flight from Gilgit to Islamabad is cancelled. The alternative flight from Skardu is also cancelled. This means we must travel by bus to Islamabad, a journey of at least eleven hours. The local agent scheduled this trip for Tuesday, but it makes more sense to travel on Wednesday. Fortunately, this can be rescheduled. This way we will still have a full day to spend in Gilgit. In the room, I prepare my sleeping bag. Just under the available blankets without sheets doesn’t seem very attractive. I quickly fall asleep.