Pakistan > The fort of Skardu

At quarter to three the alarm goes off. I quickly take a shower and pack my luggage. Three quarters of an hour later, all the travelers are ready at the reception. The luggage is loaded onto the roof of the bus. In half an hour, we drive to the airport. At the entrance, everyone must show their flight ticket. In the week before the trip, the flight was changed. Originally, we were supposed to fly a day earlier. Because of this, some had printed the wrong version. Fortunately, everyone could also show the correct version. The flight to Skardu is a spectacular flight over the Himalayas. Unfortunately, I don’t have a window seat. Still, I expect to see the mountains. In the departure hall, I order a coffee. Around half past five, we are driven by bus to the plane. Except for a few spots, the plane is full. After takeoff, the pilot announces that the K2 mountain is visible — the second highest mountain in the world at 8,611 meters. I see a mountain peak but am not sure if this is K2. The mountain landscape becomes more rugged. The pilot mentions several times the names of the surrounding mountains. Through the window, I see we are no longer only flying above the mountains but also among them. The landing in Skardu is special. The pilot has to maneuver the plane through the mountains to descend — a left turn, a right turn. Mountains are visible everywhere. With utmost precision, the pilot lands the plane on the runway.

Pakistan - View of the snowcapped Himalayan peaks

It takes a while before the luggage arrives. Fortunately, all luggage came along. In the arrival hall, I meet Yassir and Cherry. They are the local guides and will accompany us for the rest of the trip. They also introduce us to the five drivers of the 4x4 vehicles, which we will use in the coming period. First, we drive to the hotel in Skardu. While driving through the valley, high mountains stand on both sides. What a beautiful sight. From the hotel, there is also a wonderful view over the rugged mountains and the river. In the hotel room, I freshen up a bit, and in the restaurant, I have breakfast. At half past nine, we leave again with the vehicles. We pass through the center of Skardu. There is much more life on the streets now — a messy and chaotic scene. On the other side of the village, we drive into the mountains toward Kachura. We stop at Lower Kachura Lake, also known as Shangri-La Lake. We look out over the clear blue water, with the Shangri-La resort hotel on the other side. The mountain ranges and blue sky complete the picture. How beautiful nature can be. A little higher lies Upper Kachura mountain lake, a lake among the mountains without natural overflow streams.

Pakistan - View of the mountains around Skardu and the Indus River

Due to recent rain, the water level is high. Here we have the opportunity to take a boat ride and swim. With some fellow travelers, I board the boat. It is special to sail on a lake at 2,500 meters altitude, surrounded by impressive mountain ranges. We dock on the other side. I change clothes and jump into the fresh water. Once I’m wet through, it’s wonderful to swim. I swim to the middle of the lake. I definitely notice that this lake is at altitude — swimming takes a bit more effort. On the shore, I dry off again. Around noon, everyone is back at the pier where we started. Because of the early flight this morning, I feel like I’ve already been going all day. We drive back to Skardu for lunch. It takes some time to prepare lunch for everyone. To make it easier, we chose some dishes to share instead of individual orders. Still, it takes quite some time before the food is served. After lunch, we walk from the restaurant along the Polo Ground into the mountains. A path zigzags upward and leads to Kharpocho Fort. The higher I climb, the more beautiful the view over Skardu and the valley. I see the center and our hotel behind it.

Pakistan - Swimming in the Upper Kachura lake at 2500 meters altitude

To enter the fort, we must pass through a narrow opening, at most fifty by fifty centimeters. It’s unclear why the door cannot be opened. There is a joke that they lost the key. The fort has been used since the 16th century for the defense of the area. It is strategically located on a rock where two rivers meet. During his invasion of Baltistan in 1840, the Dogra army stormed the fort and razed it to the ground. The Dogras built a new fort on flat ground on Kharpocho hill. The fort remained in use until the First Kashmir War in 1947. From the fort’s walls, the view is beautiful and wide. I have to watch my steps carefully. Not everything seems very stable. The local people visiting the fort are more reserved than yesterday in Islamabad. Especially the women turn their faces away. While climbing over the rocks, I notice my hiking boots are breaking. The heel is damaged. It seems part of the cushioning has become porous because I haven’t used the shoes for a long time. I only have a few pairs of shoes and still have to complete the trek. I carefully walk down again. Some fellow travelers make a walk to an Eco village. I decide to stop. With a few others, I walk back through the center to the hotel.

Pakistan - From the ascent to the Fort of Skardu there is a beautiful view

Along the way, I look at shoe shops. Maybe I need to buy new shoes, and Skardu is the best place for that. Unfortunately, most shops are closed. Around half past five, I return to the room. I’m tired. When I lie down for a moment, I briefly fall asleep. I need to discuss my shoes with Willem. He advises me to go directly to the town. The guide Cherry and a driver come along. A shoemaker on the street says he can repair the shoes but only with a smooth piece of car tire, which would remove the tread. This could be dangerous. Cherry suggests we first look at the second-hand market for other shoes. The stalls are closed and covered with cloths. When sellers see a customer, most open their stalls again. Several sellers bring shoes. Most are too small. Eventually, I have a choice between two pairs of comfortable shoes. I choose Asics, a kind of gym shoe with tread. With my own insoles from my old shoes, this should work. I pay 3,000 rupees, about ten euros. Just in case, I also take my old hiking boots back. If it really doesn’t work, I can still walk for a day with them. Relieved, I drive back to the hotel. This problem is solved again. I thank the guide and driver for their help. We decide not to eat out in town. I take a muesli bar and go to bed early.