Pakistan > Through the Hushe Valley

I turn on both taps of the shower. I have no idea which is hot and which is cold. I don’t even know if there is hot water at all. Yesterday afternoon there wasn’t any, at least. I let the water run while I brush my teeth first. Then the stream feels warmer. By turning off the cold tap, I manage to have a comfortably warm shower. Nice. In the restaurant, breakfast is ready: toast, omelet, naan bread, and jam. It’s a decent way to start the day. Today we drive into the Hushe Valley. At the end of this valley lie the towering mountains over seven kilometers high. If we’re lucky, we might see the Masherbrum mountain. This 7,821-meter peak is also known as the “K1.” However, precipitation is forecasted for this afternoon. Before driving to Hushe, we visit the old mosque in Khaplu. Like the mosque we saw yesterday, the Chaqchan Mosque is one of the oldest in Pakistan. The mosque dates back to 1370, from the time when the population in the area largely converted from Tibetan Buddhism to Islam. The old mosque itself is closed. A little further on lies Khaplu Palace. Khaplu Palace is an old fort and palace in Khaplu, built in the mid-19th century to replace an earlier fort nearby. It served as the royal residence for the Raja of Khaplu. The guide explains that the palace was built in Kashmiri architecture style. We are near the tri-border point of India, China, and Pakistan. Inside, we explore the different rooms. I have to duck at every door because none of the doors are even 1.

Pakistan - The palace building has four floors built with wood mud bricks clay and earth mortar

5 meters high. The low doors served three functions: they forced visitors to bow before the king, they offered security by making it harder for attackers to enter, and they kept the warmth inside better. On the top floor were the king’s and queen’s quarters. The queen received her visitors in a wooden bay window. The royal family lived in the palace until 1989. Only after their departure did the renovation start, and electricity was installed in all rooms. I can hardly imagine they could live here for so long. After visiting the palace, we leave Khaplu. We follow the river a bit and come to a bridge. Next to the new bridge lies the old bridge. Several steel cables are missing. We cross on foot and can choose which bridge to take. I have little confidence in the old bridge, so I choose the new one. On the other side, we continue our route. The road through the valley is narrow. Passing oncoming traffic is just barely possible. Children wave and shout after us. This was very different yesterday in Shigar. Probably, they are more accustomed to passing tourists here because all climbers of K1 start in Hushe. From here, it’s still two days’ walk to the base camp. The village of Machlu clings to the mountain slope according to Tibetan custom.

Pakistan - The mosque in the village of Machlu in the Hushe valley

This region once belonged to Tibet. We walk through the village. The houses are built from logs and homemade bricks. Many houses are still under construction or have fallen into disrepair. Chickens and cows are kept between the houses. Although very lively, the village looks poor. We are overtaken by a small truck carrying chickens. A little further, it stops. The chickens are weighed in a large basket on a scale. The chickens are thrown into the basket—hardly humane. Our cars have been rerouted. A group of children has gathered here to wave us goodbye. As we go deeper into the valley, the road becomes narrower and worse. Large stretches are unpaved. Sometimes the asphalt has disappeared due to landslides. We pass narrow bridges. The wooden deck hangs on steel cables and moves when cars cross. For safety, only one vehicle crosses the suspension bridge at a time. We arrive safely on the other side. At the village of Kanday, the asphalt ends. We cautiously continue over the rocky and winding road, driving almost at a walking pace

Pakistan - From Hushe on a clear day you should be able to see the Masterbrun K1 mountain

. Around one o’clock, we arrive in Hushe. This is also the end of the road through the valley. Before walking, we order lunch. A guide takes us further on foot into the valley. In the distance lie the giant mountains surrounded by clouds. I do not see Masherbrum, but I do see other impressive snowy Himalayan peaks. Behind us, clouds are gathering. A dark sky hangs over the valley. It soon starts to drizzle. I put on my rain jacket and continue walking. After about half an hour, we reach the best viewpoint of the mountains. Because of the clouds and rain, we only see a small part of the natural beauty. From here, we walk back. The rain stops even before we return. For lunch, several dishes are set on the table. Ordering one dish per person would have taken too long. Yet it is already four o’clock before we start the return trip. Although the car shakes and sways a lot on the unpaved roads, I close my eyes for a while. We pass the villages we drove through this morning again. It’s funny to see that some people are still sitting by the roadside. At the bridge, we turn off again and drive back to Khaplu. At half past six, I am back at the hotel. I liked yesterday’s meal and order the same. Some travel companions skip dinner after their late lunch.