
Home > Iran > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 17
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
In the morning I begin where I left off the previous day. I visit the mausoleum of Avicenna. Avicenna was an important scientist in the field of medicine. In 1037 he died in Hamadan. With his knowledge, he contributed in that period to the Islamic Golden Age. Today, it is mainly the monument that draws attention: a twenty-meter-high, rocket-like structure in the middle of a small park. I visit the tomb, take a look at the small museum, and walk underneath the monument.
After that, I leave Hamadan. I head towards the holy city of Qom. Qom is the city where Ayatollah Khomeini studied. It is also the city where, in 1979, he launched the Islamic Revolution against Shah Reza Pahlavi. A year later, in Qom, the Islamic Republic of Iran was proclaimed. Just after midday I arrive in this remarkable city. The bus is not allowed to enter the city center. At a parking lot I transfer to a shuttle bus. I notice that the clothing on the streets here is much stricter. Women predominantly wear a black chador — a cloth covering them from head to ankles. I also see many mullahs walking around, wearing either a white or black turban. These are Islamic clerics. Today, I myself am also wearing a long-sleeved shirt. The shuttle bus takes me to the mausoleum of Fatima. Fatima was the sister of the seventh imam, Reza. She died in the year 816 in Qom, while on her way to Mashhad. Her grave has become a pilgrimage site for Shiite Muslims. After Mashhad, Qom is the holiest city in Iran. Under supervision, I am allowed to enter the Islamic shrine. From the entrance, I am guided by a volunteer of the complex. He speaks little to no English, but plenty of Farsi. From his words I gather that, as a non-Muslim, I am not allowed to view Fatima’s shrine up close.
His gestures also make it clear that taking photos is not appreciated. Fortunately, a Canadian Iranian offers help. He is on holiday in his fatherland. He wants to know where I come from, and he immediately translates the guide’s explanations. He explains, among other things, that I may take photos in the courtyard, as long as I do not photograph the shrine itself. I thank him and walk back with my guide to the entrance gate. The complex is enormously large. Two years ago I also visited Qom. Since then, the complex has already been significantly expanded. Various buildings have been demolished for this purpose. How much further will this continue in the coming years? With the shuttle bus I return to my own bus. Then it is time for the final hundred kilometers to Kashan. The hotel is located near the Fin Gardens in Kashan. Unfortunately, it is about nine kilometers from the city center. In the late afternoon I take a walk through the neighborhood. I visit a small but beautiful mausoleum in the residential area. The tranquility of the courtyard is especially breathtaking.