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Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom

Dag 17 - Monday, May 14, 2012

In the morning I begin where I left off the previous day. I visit the mausoleum of Avicenna. Avicenna was an important scientist in the field of medicine. In 1037 he died in Hamadan. With his knowledge, he contributed in that period to the Islamic Golden Age. Today, it is mainly the monument that draws attention: a twenty-meter-high, rocket-like structure in the middle of a small park. I visit the tomb, take a look at the small museum, and walk underneath the monument.

Iran - The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom is one of the holiest places in Iran

After that, I leave Hamadan. I head towards the holy city of Qom. Qom is the city where Ayatollah Khomeini studied. It is also the city where, in 1979, he launched the Islamic Revolution against Shah Reza Pahlavi. A year later, in Qom, the Islamic Republic of Iran was proclaimed. Just after midday I arrive in this remarkable city. The bus is not allowed to enter the city center. At a parking lot I transfer to a shuttle bus. I notice that the clothing on the streets here is much stricter. Women predominantly wear a black chador — a cloth covering them from head to ankles. I also see many mullahs walking around, wearing either a white or black turban. These are Islamic clerics. Today, I myself am also wearing a long-sleeved shirt. The shuttle bus takes me to the mausoleum of Fatima. Fatima was the sister of the seventh imam, Reza. She died in the year 816 in Qom, while on her way to Mashhad. Her grave has become a pilgrimage site for Shiite Muslims. After Mashhad, Qom is the holiest city in Iran. Under supervision, I am allowed to enter the Islamic shrine. From the entrance, I am guided by a volunteer of the complex. He speaks little to no English, but plenty of Farsi. From his words I gather that, as a non-Muslim, I am not allowed to view Fatima’s shrine up close.

Iran - Even tourists must wear a chador to visit the mausoleum in Qom

His gestures also make it clear that taking photos is not appreciated. Fortunately, a Canadian Iranian offers help. He is on holiday in his fatherland. He wants to know where I come from, and he immediately translates the guide’s explanations. He explains, among other things, that I may take photos in the courtyard, as long as I do not photograph the shrine itself. I thank him and walk back with my guide to the entrance gate. The complex is enormously large. Two years ago I also visited Qom. Since then, the complex has already been significantly expanded. Various buildings have been demolished for this purpose. How much further will this continue in the coming years? With the shuttle bus I return to my own bus. Then it is time for the final hundred kilometers to Kashan. The hotel is located near the Fin Gardens in Kashan. Unfortunately, it is about nine kilometers from the city center. In the late afternoon I take a walk through the neighborhood. I visit a small but beautiful mausoleum in the residential area. The tranquility of the courtyard is especially breathtaking.

Kashgar BazaarThe Saturday bazaar in Kashgar
Beihai ParkThe northern lake in Beihai Park
Boghehye Sayyed domeThe beautiful dome of the Boghehye Sayyed Roknaddin at night in Yazd
Historic village AbyanehThe historic UNESCO village of Abyaneh built against the mountain

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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