Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa

I slept poorly last night. My stomach is really upset, and I spend several trips in the bathroom. Fortunately, I still have a full day in Bukhara and don’t need to travel. I skip breakfast. I had planned to take the bus to the palace outside the center, but I decide it’s more practical to stay near the hotel—you never know. I visit the two madrassas at Lyab-i Hauz Square. I then walk to the citadel, searching for the old prison.

Uzbekistan - The Samanid Mausoleum dates from the 11th century

When I turn right, I leave the regular tourist route. I wander through the old streets, filled with sand and litter. Ramshackle houses line the road. Children play with a ball on the dusty street. At the corner of the citadel, I see the old prison. I climb the stairs and buy a ticket. As I try to continue, a woman taps me on the shoulder. Ticket check. She tears off the control stub right in front of the ticket counter. Well, that gives two people work. I am the only visitor in the prison. On the courtyard, I look at a few old cells. The museum isn’t much to see. The 6.5-meter-deep pit is the most impressive feature. Prisoners were lowered in with a rope. I strike up a conversation with one of the museum attendants. “Ah, Holland,” he says. “Robben and van Persie!” Football is truly international.

Uzbekistan - A meeting with an Uzbek family in Bukhara

He tells me that Uzbekistan wants to host the World Cup in 2026 or 2030. Laughing, I make a deal with him: Uzbekistan gets the tournament, Holland gets the win. In the park, I order some tea. Many Uzbeks sit around me. I watch them; they watch me. As I continue toward the mausoleum in the park, I seek the shade. It feels much warmer today than in the previous days. The thermometer on my backpack reads 32 degrees Celsius. In the sun, it’s even hotter. The Samanid Mausoleum dates from the 11th century. The terracotta square structure has been restored multiple times over the years. The relief on the walls creates beautiful shadows in the sunlight. I enter the small mausoleum. Beneath the dome lie two tombs. As I continue through the park, I notice that it is busy—almost like a holiday. Entire families in colorful clothing head toward the small amusement park. A long line forms for the tiny Ferris wheel. Young couples pedal around the pond on paddle boats. At the edge of the park, I check out two madrassas facing each other. The Lonely Planet notes that these are often closed. When I see a door slightly open, I take a peek.

Uzbekistan - On the roof of a dilapidated Quran school

I am warmly welcomed by the caretaker. He explains many things to me—in Uzbek, of course. For a small tip, I am allowed to go to the roof of the madrasa. The staircase is on the other side. I cross the courtyard of the heavily dilapidated madrasa. Large cracks run through the iwans (entrance portals). I climb a narrow staircase littered with rubble and reach the roof. From here, I can see the courtyard below. Behind me lies the city of Bukhara. At the old student rooms, the structure of the madrasa is clearly visible. Yet my attention is drawn mostly to the large cracks and crumbling walls. I carefully watch where I step, hoping that a successful renovation will take place—though it will be a lot of work. In the evening, I eat at another rooftop terrace in the city center. A large restaurant with excellent service. When the waiter learns that I am from the Netherlands, he wants to know everything about Sensation White. Soon, I realize he already knows much more about it than I do. He plans to visit the Netherlands in two years to attend Sensation himself.