Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae

About two hours from Shiraz, we take the exit to Pasargadae. The bus driver turns onto a side road. From there, it is still eight kilometers to the ancient archaeological site. From a distance, I can already see the tomb of Cyrus. The archaeological site of Pasargadae dates back to 500 BC. Cyrus had a palace built here. Remains of the palace and the citadel can still be visited. The best-preserved structure is Cyrus’s tomb itself. I walk around the tomb monument, which is about ten meters high. A few hundred meters further lies the former palace. I examine the foundations; little of the structure remains standing.

Iran - The ancient Tomb of Cyrus from 500 BC in Pasargadae

The palace foundations offer little shade, and only now do I notice how hot it is. The sun beats down with full intensity. Finally, I visit the citadel—a hill at the end of the valley formed by large stone blocks. It is likely that part of the old city once stood atop this hill. After visiting the site, I continue toward the desert city of Yazd. Along the way, I see endless stretches of desert. The road runs straight through it. I think to myself that you absolutely do not want a flat tire in the middle of this desert. We stop for lunch at a farm along the route. Water is pumped from a well to irrigate the land, giving the farm a green landscape. I eat my lunch in the shade beneath the trees. The owner comes to welcome us. It must take skill to run such a farm in such a dry environment. As I get closer to Yazd, more mountains appear. These mountains allow for the creation of underground water channels.

Iran - The traditional Zurkhaneh sport is practiced with large clubs

The water sometimes flows for kilometers beneath the mountain layers before emerging above ground—creating an oasis. To direct the water, several wells have been dug in the area. The water is then channeled into the city. Some wells are as deep as thirty meters. Around Yazd, I see more and more of these wells. This water supply is the primary reason why a city like Yazd can survive in the middle of the desert. I arrive in Yazd at four o’clock. The luxury hotel is a few kilometers outside the city center—unfortunate! The hotel’s beautiful inner garden partially makes up for this. In the evening, I attend a performance of Zurkhaneh. In a former water reservoir, men practice this traditional sport. Swinging clubs over their shoulders to the rhythm of psalms from the Quran, the performance is fascinating to watch—but also quite touristy due to the more than fifty Japanese visitors present. For dinner, I eat Bodemjam, the traditional dish of Yazd made with eggplant and chicken, at the Silkroad Hotel. Very fitting.