Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa

Turkey - The prehistoric archaeological site of Gobekli Tepe

I am on my way to Göbekli Tepe, a prehistoric archaeological site that has only been excavated since 1995. As I approach the ruins, I see several circular depressions. Here stands one of the oldest temples in the world, likely around 11,500 years old. It is remarkable that people of that era were already capable of creating such precise pillars. The pillars are decorated with carvings of animals. Back in Sanliurfa, I stroll through the town again, following the route to the citadel. Passing a teahouse, men on the terrace gesture for me to come sit. A small table with a low stool is quickly set up. Among this large group of Turkish men, I feel like a spectacle. It is Friday, and many people are preparing for prayer. I follow them to the mosque and enter the courtyard. Here is the entrance to the cave where the prophet Abraham is said to have been born. As a child, he was hidden here for years as a future king. I hesitate briefly, wondering if I am allowed to enter this sacred pilgrimage site. Noticing my hesitation, the men gesture for me to simply follow them. We take the men’s entrance. The entry fee is 1 lira, but for some unclear reason, I do not have to pay at the entrance. I follow the men through a small gate.

Turkey - Men playing a game in the courtyard of the caravanserai

Inside, the cave is visible. People are praying at this holy site. Meanwhile, the mosque is becoming increasingly crowded as the Friday prayer is about to begin. On the courtyard, rugs are laid out, and men sit ready for prayer. I walk through the park toward the holy fish pond. According to legend, coal was turned into fish by Abraham’s prayer. The carp in the pond are therefore considered sacred and are fed by devotees. The Rizvaniye Mosque is beautifully reflected in the water. I notice that people around the pond are dressed in stunningly colorful clothing, with the purple headscarves particularly striking. Through the rose garden, I approach the stairs to the citadel and climb up. From above, I have a wonderful view of the city of Sanliurfa. I examine the two tall pillars on the citadel, which belong to the Throne of Nemrut. I leave the citadel via an old tunnel. A long staircase in the citadel wall brings me back down. In the bazaar, I wander through narrow streets full of stalls—a lively neighborhood. I look for the caravanserai. In the maze of streets, it’s not entirely clear where I should go, but this is not a problem, as everyone points me in the right direction.

Turkey - The Rizvaniye Mosque in Sanliurfa beautifully reflects in the holy fish pond

Soon, I reach the courtyard of the old caravanserai. Where camels once rested, there is now a cozy terrace for the teahouse. At the tables, men are playing various games. I order a tea and sit in the square. People nod politely in my direction. The older men’s faces show signs of a hard life. Through the bazaar, I continue toward the old city—a labyrinth of small streets. I turn left, I turn right, and soon realize I am lost. I ask for directions several times back to the main road, which leads me back to the hotel. Quickly, I grab my swim trunks and towel and head to the bathhouse, the hamman. As I step inside the hamman, everyone looks a little awkward, and so do I. Soon, however, a changing area is indicated with gestures. Wrapped only in a towel, I follow an older man into the bathhouse. He shows me the sauna. Meanwhile, the table is being prepared. When I lie down, I am scrubbed and massaged. Afterward, wrapped in towels, I sit down to enjoy a glass of orange juice.