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Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)


China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang

Dag 55 - Thursday, June 21, 2012

Other travel companions are already busy when I wake up. I have slept surprisingly well. Calmly, I pack up my things again. Just before nine o’clock, the train rolls into Liuyuan station. On the station square, I order a noodle soup for breakfast. Afterwards, the bus takes me to my hotel in Dunhuang. The hotel is located in the city center. Although Dunhuang is not as low-lying as Turpan, it is also oppressively hot here.

China - On a camel up the sand dune of Dunhuang

In my room, I take a refreshing shower. In the afternoon, I stroll into Dunhuang. A modern city with a lot of attention for tourists. In the center, countless chairs are set up by the food stalls. Now it is still deserted, but I can imagine it being busy here in the evening. I sit down and want to order a beer. On the menu, I see that a bottle of beer costs thirty yuan. Quite a difference from the 6 to 10 yuan of the past few days. These are tourist prices. I decide to go for it anyway. Around me I also see Chinese people drinking beer. I try to figure out if maybe there are two menus — one with tourist prices and one with local prices. I don’t see any different menus. Back at the hotel, I get on the bus. I’m going to the high sand dunes on the edge of Dunhuang. It quickly turns out to be a real tourist spectacle. The sand dunes are fenced off by a high wall. To get in, I have to buy a ticket for 15 euros (!). I want to ride a camel to the top of the dune. I’m not alone. I estimate several hundred camels are already making their way up. In a long line, they climb higher. I buy another ticket for fifteen euros for a camel ride and rent bright orange leg protectors. I mount my camel. The animal immediately stands up. Since it rises first on its hind legs and then its front legs, I have to be careful while getting up. With five camels in a row, my ride begins. The handler takes my camera to make some photos. I had pictured the camel ride differently, but I do enjoy it.

China - The pagoda at Crescent Moon Lake in Dunhuang

A few dozen meters below the top, I see all the camels lying down. I also dismount here. Via a wooden staircase, I climb to the top of the sand dune. From the top, I have a beautiful view of the desert. The sun is already low on the horizon. The orange glow gives a wonderful tint to the red desert sand. I see people sliding down with sleds. I want to try that too! It turns out you need a separate ticket for it. I didn’t buy one. The ticket sales were at the bottom of the stairs. When I pay the fee anyway, they still let me go. I sit in a low wooden tray. I slide down the slope. With my hands in the sand, I can steer a bit and brake. Braking quickly proves unnecessary. From time to time, my sled lifts off the ground. Luckily, I manage to keep it straight. If I tilt, I would inevitably tumble. I reach the bottom safely. A pity the ride is over so quickly. There’s no time to go again. I look for my camel again. My camel has number 374. Thanks to this number, I can quickly find it among all the others. I dismount by the pagoda at the Crescent Moon Lake. The pagoda sits beautifully in the valley with the setting sun. In the evening, I return to the street with the eateries. I order crayfish and snails.

Mosque SanliurfaThe large mosque of Sanliurfa next to the birthplace cave of Abraham
Seven BullsThe rock formation Seven Bulls
SunsetA Kyrgyz man with a traditional hat at sunset
Akdamar IslandAkdamar Island in Lake Van

Travelogue In the Footsteps of Marco Polo

Dag 1 | Turkey > The flight to Ankara
Dag 2 | Turkey > The mausoleum of Atatürk
Dag 3 | Turkey > On the way to Cappadocia
Dag 4 | Turkey > Balloon flight over the rock formations
Dag 5 | Turkey > Rain in Kahta
Dag 6 | Turkey > In dense fog on Nemrut Dagi mountain
Dag 7 | Turkey > Friday prayers in Sanliurfa
Dag 8 | Turkey > The Kurdish capital Diyarbakir
Dag 9 | Turkey > The consequences of the earthquake in Van
Dag 10 | Turkey > The island Akdamar in Lake Van
Dag 11 | Turkey > The Ishak Pasha Palace in Dogubayazit
Dag 12 | Iran > Crossing the border to Iran
Dag 13 | Iran > Visiting a cave dwelling
Dag 14 | Iran > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 15 | Iran > Kurdish food in the park
Dag 16 | Iran > An afternoon tour through Hamadan
Dag 17 | Iran > The mausoleum of Fatima in Qom
Dag 18 | Iran > On the roof of the bazaar of Kashan
Dag 19 | Iran > The red mountain village Abyaneh
Dag 20 | Iran > Wandering through Esfahan
Dag 21 | Iran > A whirlwind on the square
Dag 22 | Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad
Dag 23 | Iran > Local encounters in Shiraz
Dag 24 | Iran > The tomb of Cyrus in Pasargadae
Dag 25 | Iran > The desert city Yazd
Dag 26 | Iran > Helicopters in the desert
Dag 27 | Iran > The golden tomb of Imam Reza
Dag 28 | Iran > Back to the Holy Shrine
Dag 29 | Turkmenistan > Across the border to Turkmenistan
Dag 30 | Turkmenistan > Ashgabat: Unique and bizarre
Dag 31 | Turkmenistan > Long bus ride to Mary
Dag 32 | Turkmenistan > The UNESCO city of Merv
Dag 33 | Uzbekistan > Mosques and madrasas in Bukhara
Dag 34 | Uzbekistan > On the roof of the madrasa
Dag 35 | Uzbekistan > The old palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 36 | Uzbekistan > Registan Square in Samarkand
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Football match Uzbekistan - Iran
Dag 38 | Kazakhstan > Computer malfunction at the border
Dag 39 | Kazakhstan > Hiking in Aksu Djabagly Nature Park
Dag 40 | Kyrgyzstan > Ala-Too Square in Bishkek
Dag 41 | Kyrgyzstan > The waterfall in Ala Archa Nature Park
Dag 42 | Kyrgyzstan > Tamchi on Lake Issyk Kul
Dag 43 | Kyrgyzstan > The old wooden cathedral of Karakol
Dag 44 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight in a yurt
Dag 45 | Kyrgyzstan > On horseback through the valley
Dag 46 | Kyrgyzstan > Through the mountains to Lake Sol Kul
Dag 47 | Kyrgyzstan > Rain and snow around Sol Kul
Dag 48 | Kyrgyzstan > Caravanserai of Tash Rabat
Dag 49 | China > The Torugart Pass into China
Dag 50 | China > Kashgar, the city of the Uyghurs
Dag 51 | China > Cows and goats for sale
Dag 52 | China > By train through the Taklamakan desert
Dag 53 | China > Death Valley of China
Dag 54 | China > Ruins of Jiaohe and Gaochang
Dag 55 | China > The sand dunes of Dunhuang
Dag 56 | China > The Buddhist Mogao Caves
Dag 57 | China > The fort of Jiayuguan
Dag 58 | China > Temple of the Eight Immortals
Dag 59 | China > The Terracotta Army of Xian
Dag 60 | China > Cycling on the Xian city wall
Dag 61 | China > The Forbidden City
Dag 62 | China > Rainy Temple of Heaven
Dag 63 | China > On the Great Wall of China
Dag 64 | China > Meeting the giant panda
Dag 65 | China > There is no bus

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