
Home > China > In the Footsteps of Marco Polo > Travelogue day 55
April 28 July 1 2012 (65 days)
Other travel companions are already busy when I wake up. I have slept surprisingly well. Calmly, I pack up my things again. Just before nine o’clock, the train rolls into Liuyuan station. On the station square, I order a noodle soup for breakfast. Afterwards, the bus takes me to my hotel in Dunhuang. The hotel is located in the city center. Although Dunhuang is not as low-lying as Turpan, it is also oppressively hot here.
In my room, I take a refreshing shower. In the afternoon, I stroll into Dunhuang. A modern city with a lot of attention for tourists. In the center, countless chairs are set up by the food stalls. Now it is still deserted, but I can imagine it being busy here in the evening. I sit down and want to order a beer. On the menu, I see that a bottle of beer costs thirty yuan. Quite a difference from the 6 to 10 yuan of the past few days. These are tourist prices. I decide to go for it anyway. Around me I also see Chinese people drinking beer. I try to figure out if maybe there are two menus — one with tourist prices and one with local prices. I don’t see any different menus. Back at the hotel, I get on the bus. I’m going to the high sand dunes on the edge of Dunhuang. It quickly turns out to be a real tourist spectacle. The sand dunes are fenced off by a high wall. To get in, I have to buy a ticket for 15 euros (!). I want to ride a camel to the top of the dune. I’m not alone. I estimate several hundred camels are already making their way up. In a long line, they climb higher. I buy another ticket for fifteen euros for a camel ride and rent bright orange leg protectors. I mount my camel. The animal immediately stands up. Since it rises first on its hind legs and then its front legs, I have to be careful while getting up. With five camels in a row, my ride begins. The handler takes my camera to make some photos. I had pictured the camel ride differently, but I do enjoy it.
A few dozen meters below the top, I see all the camels lying down. I also dismount here. Via a wooden staircase, I climb to the top of the sand dune. From the top, I have a beautiful view of the desert. The sun is already low on the horizon. The orange glow gives a wonderful tint to the red desert sand. I see people sliding down with sleds. I want to try that too! It turns out you need a separate ticket for it. I didn’t buy one. The ticket sales were at the bottom of the stairs. When I pay the fee anyway, they still let me go. I sit in a low wooden tray. I slide down the slope. With my hands in the sand, I can steer a bit and brake. Braking quickly proves unnecessary. From time to time, my sled lifts off the ground. Luckily, I manage to keep it straight. If I tilt, I would inevitably tumble. I reach the bottom safely. A pity the ride is over so quickly. There’s no time to go again. I look for my camel again. My camel has number 374. Thanks to this number, I can quickly find it among all the others. I dismount by the pagoda at the Crescent Moon Lake. The pagoda sits beautifully in the valley with the setting sun. In the evening, I return to the street with the eateries. I order crayfish and snails.