Iran > The shrine of Sayyed Ahmad

Today marks exactly three weeks of travel. A wonderful prospect, with six more weeks to go. Today, I continue my journey to Shiraz. Shiraz is the city of flowers, love, wine, and the poet Hafez. Nowadays, there’s hardly any wine left, as the consumption of alcohol is forbidden in Iran. The 470-kilometer route takes us straight through the desert—an unimaginably dry area with a four-lane highway cutting through it. It’s a perfect opportunity to read through the program for the coming days.

Iran - The entrance to the bazaar in Shiraz

I read the Lonely Planet entries on Shiraz and Persepolis. Shiraz is also the base for visiting this ancient archaeological site. Since I visited Persepolis two years ago, I decide not to go this time. I can still recall nearly every stone and inscription, leaving me more time to explore Shiraz itself. I plan to wander the city at leisure tomorrow. Around four o’clock, we arrive in Shiraz. By bus, I head to the beautiful Eram Garden just outside the city center. The sprawling gardens are especially famous for their roses and the palace. It’s a popular spot for many Iranians in the afternoon to relax. Back in the city center, I am dropped off at the shrine of Sayyed Ahmad. Sayyed Ahmad was the son of the seventh Imam Shah-e-Cheragh. This mausoleum is one of the holiest sites in Iran and a pilgrimage destination for many devotees. I hand over my backpack and camera at the depot, as cameras are not allowed inside the complex. On the large courtyard, I see mats being rolled out for the evening prayer. I join the queue to visit the shrine. I leave my shoes at a small counter and enter the mausoleum where Sayyed Ahmad’s shrine is located.

Iran - The mausoleum of Sayyed Alaeddin Hossein in Shiraz

Tourists are not always allowed, but I have no trouble entering. I step into a space that is almost indescribable. I see a heavily decorated tomb. People in front of me touch the tomb and kiss the bars. The mausoleum is entirely covered with tiny mirror pieces, creating an unbelievable sparkle. Although somewhat kitschy, the overall effect is impressive. The adjacent prayer room also has mirrored mosaics on the ceiling. I leave the mausoleum in awe. The second shrine, usually open to tourists, is decorated in a similar way. Two cousins of Sayyed Ahmad are buried there, though the shrines are smaller in size. Outside the mausoleum grounds, I take a photo, and a young man points out that photography is not allowed. Even though I’m outside the complex, I close my camera. His name is Sami. He offers to show me another shrine, which he claims is even more beautiful and supposedly allows photography.

Iran - The interior of the NasirolMolk Mosque in Shiraz

I follow him through the bazaar. We pass the courtyard of the old Jameh Mosque, the oldest mosque in the city. The mosque is somewhat neglected, though the fountain shaped like the Kaaba in Mecca is particularly notable. At the rear, we leave the mosque and Sami leads me to the intended shrine, which he says is the tomb of the Prophet Muhammad’s brother. I doubt this claim, as it would otherwise be a major pilgrimage site. Sami insists. The shrine is indeed as beautiful as Sayyed Ahmad’s shrine. I find the adjacent mosque even more impressive. Sami opens a door behind the mosque. I follow him into a large communal hall, roughly the size of a sports hall. The ceiling is entirely covered in mirrored mosaics. Carpets cover the floor. In one corner, a group of women is taking a class; in another, painting is underway. Outside again, Sami asks if I have seen the Red Mosque. I missed this mosque during my previous visit two years ago. Unlike other mosques, this one features many red tones alongside the dominant blue and white mosaics. Inside, Sami explains that the mosque is a hybrid between a Christian church and an Islamic mosque. He paid for the entrance ticket and claims to have made a relatively large donation at the shrine. Although I am almost certain he didn’t, I give him the equivalent of two euros. I thought it was a wonderful tour. When he immediately asks if I trust him, I lie ‘yes’—but now I know for sure. I give him this little extra, even though it is essentially a scam.