Netherlands > The Hanging Kitchens

After breakfast, we pick up the car. Driving through the city proves to be a bit of a challenge—roadworks seem to be everywhere. Back at the hotel, we load our luggage. With the car and the electric bike, we set off for the ’t Roegwold nature reserve in Schildwolde, about fifteen kilometers outside the city. The navigation takes us to a parking lot near the reserve, but it turns out to be on the wrong side. A passerby advises me to drive to the other side for the Knuppelpad. The Knuppelpad is part of a nature walk through ’t Roegwold and consists of a wooden boardwalk more than 700 meters long, running straight through the marsh. Due to COVID restrictions, the walkway is one-way only. From the path across the lake, we hear countless birds on the surrounding islands. This nature reserve came into being when farmland was returned to nature—a wonderful initiative.

Netherlands - Meadows returned to nature in the Roegwold

After the walk, we each go our own way toward Appingedam. I continue on to Slochteren, where the Fraeylemaborg is located. Like the Verhildersum borg, this manor house was originally built around 1300 as a stone house—a kind of fortified farm. It later expanded into a manor. In the 19th century, the two wings of the estate were demolished, giving the house its current shape. Today, the estate is a museum. At the ticket counter, I’m told to ring the bell at the house for entry. The door opens, and with a room guide in hand, I wander through the house. In the attic, a video shows the last residents of the borg. It’s amusing to hear the granddaughter talk about playing in the house as a child. Behind the house lies the Slochterbos. The Middenlaan runs in a straight line from the estate through the narrow, elongated forest.

Netherlands - The Fraeylemaborg manor house beautifully reflected in the moat

I walk to the end of the property. In the park, several art installations are on display. An old bus is perhaps the most striking, with the theme “From Bus to Forest.” Unfortunately, the bus has recently been vandalized. After about an hour, I’m back at the Fraeylemaborg. On the terrace, I order coffee with cake. The sun breaks through—wonderful! Via Schildwolde and Siddeburen, I drive to Appingedam. In the center, we stay at the Wapen van Leiden. Appingedam was already a trading town in the Middle Ages. Its location on the Damsterdiep, with an open waterway to the sea, made it popular for commerce. The city often clashed with Groningen—and usually lost. Appingedam fell into decline, and the warehouses were converted into houses. To save space, bay windows for kitchens were built out over the water.

Netherlands - The famous hanging kitchens of Appingedam

These hanging kitchens of Appingedam are now a local attraction. We stroll through the town. From the bridge over the Damsterdiep, we see the kitchens hanging above the water. On the opposite bank, we order a beer on a terrace—perfect with the view of the hanging kitchens. In the evening, we dine at the Basiliek, a restaurant in a former church. Inside, all tables are reserved, so we eat outside on the terrace.