Netherlands > The Oldest Planetarium

Franeker is one of the oldest Frisian cities. The origin of the city dates back to 734. In 1402, Franeker was granted city rights. Like many other cities, Franeker thrived on trade via waterways. For centuries, water transport was the most efficient means of transport. Along the canals, beautiful mansions and elegant warehouses appeared during the 16th and 17th centuries. On Zilverstraat stands the Korendragershuisje (“Grain Carriers’ House”), a small building where grain used to be weighed. We walk from Groenmarkt to Raadhuisplein. The town hall is perhaps the most beautiful building in the city. This Renaissance building from the early 1600s is still in use as the city hall. On its façade is a statue of Lady Justice. In the past, legal verdicts were also pronounced in this building. When a verdict was given, it was announced to the public via a small bay window on the side. In front of the town hall stands the statue of Eise Eisinga. To demonstrate that the Earth would not perish when the planets Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and the Moon aligned closely, he built a planetarium in his living room in 1774. He showed how the orbits of the different planets work and how the planets relate to each other. He worked on this project for seven years. Eise Eisinga’s planetarium is the oldest still-functioning planetarium in the world. Using gears, the planets revolve around each other. It is astonishing how accurately he managed to build it at that time. In the early 1800s, King William I visited. The first king of the Netherlands was so impressed that he had the state purchase the planetarium. Later, it passed into the hands of the city of Franeker.

Netherlands - The construction on the ceiling in the Eise Eisinga Planetarium Museum

Thanks to this, the planetarium can still be shown to the public today. Franeker was also a university city. After Leiden, Franeker was the second university city in the country. In the city center are several buildings that belonged to the university. Lastly, I visit the Martinikerk. It is the first church open for visits since the corona lockdown. Since Franeker’s origins, a church has stood on this site. The church has been rebuilt and expanded many times, which is why the windows and beams are uneven. I end the walking tour through Franeker and return to my car. In about half an hour, I drive to the Alde Feanen nature reserve. I arrive too early to check in, so I stop at the Skûtsje Museum. I am warmly welcomed, especially when I mention I come from Voorhout, near Warmond. Every year, the Frisian skûtsjes (traditional sailing barges) hold a “strontrace” from Workum to Warmond and back. A volunteer explains how the skûtsje was built and shows several typical objects from the ship. By a photo of a capsized sailing ship, he says such a ship can resume the race within half an hour with the help of a tugboat. Sails stretched over the hull prevent water from entering the ship. Another volunteer, a blacksmith, is working. “You come from Warmond?” he asks me. “They have talked about you.” He shows his nameplate with the name “Wassenaar.” My ancestors come from there too, he says. He makes the iron parts for skûtsjes—all handmade. Proudly, he says he is 83 years old and enjoys his work a lot.

Netherlands - A sktsje at the museum in Earnewald

He shows some parts for the sailing ships that he has made—all craftsmanship. I thank the volunteers for their explanations. Outside, I meet Marco, who had a delay because the ferry was full. Due to corona, only six cyclists were allowed on board. We planned to boat through the Alde Feanen nature reserve, but no boats were available. A second rental place still had a boat, but then we would have only two and a half hours, and still pay the full daily price. The owner advised against it. We decide to reserve a boat for tomorrow morning and go cycling this afternoon instead. The ferry trip to Grou is said to be very beautiful. We follow the route to the first ferry at Warden. Many people are already waiting, and we cannot get on. Dark clouds loom behind us, and rain threatens. We decide not to wait twenty minutes for the next ferry but to adjust the route. We ride along the narrow bike path toward Garyp. It starts to drizzle. Under the N31 viaduct, we stop briefly while the rain intensifies. After the worst of the rain, we continue to Garyp. Following the cycling nodes, we go on to Oudega. It is dry again, and the sun is cautiously coming through. At a terrace, the chairs are quickly dried for us. We have a beer. From Oudega, it is five kilometers back to Earnewâld, where we will stay overnight. We pass the restaurant De Meerpaal, where we have a reservation for tonight. We arrive much earlier than expected, which is not a problem. On the terrace, we enjoy our meal with a local Frisian beer.

Netherlands - Sleeping aboard a former tour boat

Finally, we arrive at our overnight address. We stay on the MSK Friesia. Heidi welcomes us and tells us that the ship used to be for sightseeing tours, but last year they converted it into a Bed and Breakfast. There are three rooms on board. We sleep on the upper deck. The shared sanitary facilities are below deck. A nice place to stay. On the terrace on the aft deck, we watch the sun set on the horizon. We look out over the wide waters of the Alde Feanen.