Netherlands > The Brekken Path

Today we’re going our separate ways. Marco prefers cycling, and I’m more into hiking. Perfect to each follow our own plan for the day. I’m going to walk a long stretch of the Groot Frieslandpad. I head out early and take the train to Workum. To reach the route, I have to walk the same section from the town center to the station that we did yesterday, but in reverse. The station is about one kilometer outside the center. On the way, I buy two rolls at a bakery and some cold cuts at the butcher’s. My lunch for today is sorted again. From the Merk, the square next to the church, I pick up the route. Yesterday the terraces on the square were full, but now it’s quiet. Some terraces are just being set up again. Right at the start of today’s stage, I pass the Jopie Huisman Museum, which displays the artist’s paintings. I walk past the museum and turn right at St. Werenfridus Church. As I leave Workum, a passerby calls out to me that it’s a nice day for walking. Curious, he asks where I’m headed. I figure he’ll already think IJlst is far, so I don’t mention Sneek. My guess is correct. “Are you going over the Brekkenpaad?” he asks. “You definitely should!” The Brekkenpaad means nothing to me, just like the Frieslandpad means nothing to him. When I show my route on the map, he is reassured that I’ll be walking on the path he meant.

Netherlands - The road towards the church village of Westhem

An hour later, I arrive in Nijhuizem. Here begins a four-kilometer-long bike path winding through the Fleuzen nature reserve—the Brekkenpaad. On the left is the water of the Aldegeaster Brekken, on the right soggy reed fields. An ideal spot for birds. I hear them singing all around me. I have to agree with the man from this morning—it’s beautiful here. At the end of the path, I pass under the railway again. I walk via the hamlet of Greonterp to Blauwhuis. I’ve covered thirteen kilometers and decide it’s time for coffee. The terrace is just opening. I strike up a conversation with two cyclists heading toward Stavoren. I advise them to be sure to check out the upside-down house in Hindeloopen. At Westhem, the route follows a kerkpad—a narrow church path straight through the meadows. I try to imagine how people in their Sunday best would have walked this path to church. The path is muddy and slippery. A little further along, part of it is even underwater. I detour through the meadow, which is also soggy. I sink a few centimeters into the water, but luckily my hiking boots are waterproof enough to keep it out. The path leads to the church of Abbega. At Pikesyl, a second church path begins. The start isn’t inviting—a narrow strip between a ditch and a fence, with a warning for electric fencing. The narrow path is completely overgrown with tall grasses, and I can barely see where to put my feet. Carefully, I continue, hoping not to slip into the water. After two hundred meters, it gets better. I cross a small bridge and walk straight through the meadow, from red marker to red marker, toward Oosthem.

Netherlands - The sawmill De Rat between IJlst and Sneek

Once again, I end up right at the church. I continue along more passable roads to IJlst. By now, it’s three o’clock and I’m still more than five kilometers from Sneek. Following the bike path past De Rat mill, I walk through lovely scenery back to Sneek. Today’s stage ends at the station. I’ve walked 29 kilometers. Surprisingly, I’m not that tired, nor are my feet very sore. I take a seat at a terrace and order a beer. Marco is on his way too, and a little later he joins me. In the evening, we go into Sneek one last time. At the Indonesian restaurant Klein Azië, we order a small rijsttafel. A perfect ending to our days in Sneek.