Netherlands > Harlingen and Terschelling

Today Jacoline brings breakfast for the last time. It already feels very familiar. Again, the breakfast tastes great—a good start to the day. At half past nine, we say goodbye to our hostess. I drive to Harlingen by car, while Marco rides his electric bike. We will meet again in Harlingen. Harlingen is not far from Sneek. Soon I enter the harbor town. On the outskirts of the city is a parking lot where you can park for Harlingen as well as for trips to Vlieland and Terschelling. When I arrive at the parking lot, I am surprised by the huge number of cars. Are all these people on the islands? I park my car and cycle back to Harlingen. I leave my bike near the harbor area. Marco arrives on his bike as well. Together we walk into the historic city center. Thanks to its favorable location on the Zuiderzee, the city experienced significant growth in the sixteenth century. During that time, the Noorderhaven was dug and later the Zuiderhaven. The entire city was also walled. The city wall no longer exists today. Along the harbors stand many beautiful mansions. The dates on the facades are from the seventeenth century. The town hall at the Noorderhaven is the crown jewel—perhaps the most beautiful building in the city.

Netherlands - One of the historic buildings on the harbor in Harlingen

Through the old lock, we reach the other side of the Noorderhaven. At a terrace, we order coffee and watch the boats in the harbor. Regularly, the bridges open to let ships pass. Around two o’clock, we head to the ferry MS Friesland for a crossing to the Wadden Island of Terschelling. We cycle through the cars into the ship’s loading area. The bikes are placed against the ship’s wall. We find a spot on the upper outside deck. The weather is lovely, and we have a nice view of Harlingen. The captain sounds the ship’s horn three times, signaling departure. The boat leaves the harbor and heads out onto the Wadden Sea. A direct route to Terschelling isn’t possible because the water is too shallow. The ship follows the channel via a wide bend. In the distance, the Brandaris lighthouse of Terschelling appears. The ship sails directly against the north wind. Despite the sun, it is chilly on deck. I put on my jacket and try to stay sheltered while sitting. For the last twenty minutes, the boat carefully navigates the narrow channel toward West Terschelling.

Netherlands - By boat across the Wadden Sea to Terschelling Island

Upon approaching the harbor, all motorists and cyclists are asked to go to the car deck. The ship’s front ramp is already opened to dock properly. We are among the first to disembark. We cycle onto the island of Terschelling. Immediately ashore, I see the impressive Brandaris lighthouse of West Terschelling. The 52-meter-high tower rises above the village. Around the lighthouse, the terraces are pleasantly busy. However, our hotel is not in West Terschelling. We follow signs toward Midsland, about six kilometers away. Along the way, we have views of the island’s beautiful nature on one side and the Wadden Sea on the other. The tide is ebbing, and the mudflats are drying out. Birds fly above the mudflats searching for food on the exposed sandbanks. At the church in Midsland begins Oosterburen Street, where our hotel is located.

Netherlands - The lighthouse in West Terschelling

Oosterburen is a street full of cafés and restaurants. It’s a pedestrian area; parking bikes here is not allowed. We walk with our bikes in hand to the Wapen van Terschelling, a cozy hotel in the heart of the nightlife area. We are kindly told our room is at the back. We can also leave our bikes in the courtyard, but for that, we must enter the street behind the hotel starting from the church. Before doing that, we order a beer—a Schoemrakker Brandaan, a typical island beer. The room is fine. From the outside, it looks like a sort of garden house with a seating area in front of the door. Inside, it’s a nice room. A small bottle of Terschelling’s Jutter-Bitter is waiting as a welcome drink. We toast on our terrace. We return to the large terrace at the front of the hotel and order some food—of course with another Schoemrakker. In the evening, we take a stroll through Midsland. The sun slowly sets on the horizon. In Oosterburen Street, mostly local young people remain on the terraces. The tourists have already gone.