Netherlands > View over the Lauwersmeer

I actually slept quite well in the cell block. It feels a bit strange when the door closes and the electronic lock clicks shut. It sounds like a vault door closing. Fortunately, the lock also opens again at the push of a button from inside the cell. Some cells have toilets and showers installed. When I arrive, one shower is still free. I don’t have to wait. The breakfast buffet is good—no water and bread as one might expect. After breakfast, we check out and each follow our own route to Anjum, where we will stay tonight. Marco cycles via the Lauwersmeer. I first continue with the second part of the NS-walk through the outskirts of Leeuwarden, then plan to do a nature walk in the Lauwersmeer nature reserve. I pick up the city walk again beside the prison. Where yesterday’s route mainly went through the historic center, this route follows the Potmarge. This medieval stream once flowed into the Middelzee. Leeuwarden arose on the terps (artificial mounds) around this stream. The route follows a bike path through greenery along the water. At this time, many schoolchildren are also cycling to school. The turning point of the route is in the hamlet of Huizem. This used to be an independent village but has since been absorbed by the city of Leeuwarden. The village church is said to have pews from the Dutch Golden Age and the oldest pulpit in Friesland. I walk onto the churchyard where someone is maintaining the grounds. “Is the church perhaps open?” I cautiously ask.

Netherlands - The village church has the oldest pulpit in Friesland

“Yes, I think so,” he replies and leads me to the entrance. Another volunteer there enthusiastically tells me about the church, its history, and the restorations. He also tells stories about nobles buried beneath the gravestones inside. An interesting story. He specially opens the bierhuisje (mortuary) for me—a small building on the edge of the churchyard where people were once laid out. Proudly, he shows how a group of volunteers restored the building and turned it into a small museum. I warmly thank him for his explanation. I follow the route back toward the city. In the center, I pick up my car from the parking garage. Around midday, I head for the Lauwersmeer. I plan to do the ranger’s walk through the Kollumerwaard nature area. This ten-kilometer walk starts at a small parking lot along the Kwelderweg between Dokkumer Nieuwe Zijlen and Zoutkamp. I park and set off, but soon realize the description is wrong—I’m not at the right parking lot. A few kilometers further on, there is another lot. I quickly drive there, and now the directions make more sense. The walk immediately enters the national park. At the gate, there is a warning not to approach the Konik horses and Highland cattle too closely. The sandy path leads straight toward a group of grazing horses standing right by a little bridge, which I have to cross. Carefully, I walk past the herd.

Netherlands - Several Konik horses along the trail at Lauwersmeer

A few young foals get startled, but none of the horses pays me any mind. I continue through meadows and reed beds. All around me I hear birdsong. I pass the Zomerhuisbos and reach a viewpoint overlooking the Kollumerwaard. From a platform, I look out over the Sennerplaat in the Lauwersmeer. Numerous birds are gathered around the lake. A herd of Highland cattle cools off in the water. It’s oppressively warm today. I wouldn’t be surprised if the day ends with a heavy thunderstorm. I follow the shores of the lake to the Diepsterbos. Here the route follows the blue arrows. I walk through reed that reaches over my head. Luckily, the path itself is mowed flat. After about three hours, I’m back at the car. I drive via Zoutkamp to Lauwersoog. Along the dike of the Lauwersmeer, I arrive in Anjum. It’s still a bit early, so I decide to have a beer on a terrace. The weather is starting to change—a cold wind picks up. At the Bed and Breakfast, I’m warmly welcomed. There are two other guests. Together we enjoy coffee and tea in the conservatory. A nice way to get to know each other. Marco arrives at the address with some delay. He missed a cycling junction and had to make a big detour, which drained his bike battery. He had to cycle the last part without assistance. In the evening, we eat at a restaurant in Anjum. Actually, there are no tables left inside. On the terrace, we order drinks and pre-order our food. Before the meal is ready, a table inside becomes available. That’s just as well, because outside it starts to rain.