Travelogue Discovering Northern Netherlands

June 20 July 4 2021 (15 days)


Netherlands > From Stavoren to Workum

Dag 3 - Tuesday 22 June 2021

At half past eight, we close the door behind us and walk to the station in Sneek. A small diesel train operated by Arriva arrives. We board for a ride to the final stop, Stavoren. Along the way, we pass IJlst, Workum, and Hindeloopen. After thirty minutes, we get off at the harbor of Stavoren. In the harbor is the fountain called the Fish of Stavoren. On warm days, it’s an ideal place for children to play. Although it’s dry and sunny, there are no children to be seen. Near the lock stands the statue of the Lady of Stavoren. Legend has it that she possessed great wealth but lost everything. Her fleet was lost with all hands. Now she looks over the harbor toward returning ships. We follow the Havenkade and walk along the IJsselmeer toward the center of Stavoren. The old fishermen’s houses alternate with new buildings. The Stadsgracht splits the town in two. The bridge is open. A large catamaran sailboat passes through.

Netherlands - According to legend the Lady of Stavoren looks out to see if the fleet returns

At the second bridge, some skillful steering is required. The skipper has only a few centimeters of clearance on either side. It just fits. We return to the harbor. From there, we start the walk to Workum — a walk of over sixteen kilometers. Via a bike path through the polder, we arrive in Molkwerum. We walk through the hamlet to the dike of the IJsselmeer. On the dike, a strong north wind blows. We decide not to walk on the dike but on the adjacent road, where we are sheltered from the wind. We do have to watch out for traffic. Halfway along the long dike to Hindeloopen is a turnoff to the Swan birdwatching hut. From the hut, we have a beautiful view of a section of the IJsselmeer: the bend at Molkwerum.

Netherlands - Buren Street in Hindeloopen with a view of the church

The islands and sandbanks in the lake are a gathering place for birds. I also count hundreds of swans around the birdwatching hut. After this short stop, we continue along the dike to Hindeloopen. Exactly at one o’clock, we enter the former fishing village. More tourists walk the narrow streets. We follow a route past the church, the old lock, and some old commander’s houses. At a terrace, we have a pancake for lunch. From Hindeloopen, it’s six kilometers to Workum. We split up: Marco takes the train, and I continue walking to Workum. We will meet again there.

Netherlands - The passage from Workum to the IJsselmeer

Just outside Hindeloopen, the route turns off into the meadows. Right next to the station, I see the upside-down farmhouse. This building project started in 2018 because the residents wanted to have a view over the sea dike from their home. This isn’t possible in a traditional farmhouse, so they decided to build the house upside down. A strange sight. The sheep I pass pay no attention to the house but keep a proper distance from me. Occasionally, I have to climb over a fence. Unfortunately for Marco, this is the most beautiful part of today’s walk. After a few kilometers through the meadow, I reach the Soal, the canal to Workum. I follow the water all the way to Workum’s harbor. In the town center near the church, I meet Marco again. He’s already having a beer on the terrace. I quickly join him. Late in the afternoon, we take the train back to Sneek. On the way to our accommodation, we pass restaurant Koperen Kees. We stop there briefly to have dinner.

Water TowerThe rear side of the former city gate to Sneek
WoudsendThe main street of Woudsend with alleys on both sides
Fish MonumentA huge fish stands as a monument in the harbor of Stavoren
Stavoren HarborBoats in the harbor of Stavoren