Netherlands > Boating through Alde Feanen

At half past eight, a cheerful “good morning” is heard. A full breakfast basket is delivered. We take the basket to the back deck. The other guests also come here to have breakfast. The sun is shining brightly, and it promises to be a beautiful day. That’s great, because today we’re going boating in the Alde Feanen nature reserve. After breakfast, we say goodbye to Heide and Douwe, the owners of the Bed and Breakfast. They have only been hosting guests on the boat for three weeks. The boat rental office is nearby. Our boat is apparently moored in the village, the rental person explains, as he doesn’t have enough berths here. He shows us how to find the boat and explains how to start the engine. We drive to Earnewâld, about two kilometers away. The boat is quickly found. When boarding, there’s a near mishap: Marco loses his balance but just manages to stay inside the boat. Luckily. It takes several tries before the engine starts, but then we’re ready to set off. We carefully navigate out of the harbor. The weather is fantastic for boating. Using the map we received, we plan a nice route. Through the waters of the Grutte Krite, we arrive at the Ule Krite. From here, we sail through the narrow Skeanesleat. This waterway runs between nature areas that are closed to boats. Via the Saiterpetten, we return to It Wiid, the water where we stayed overnight.

Netherlands - Sailing through the nature reserve near Earnewald

The Alde Feanen nature reserve is magnificent. After about three hours, we’re back in the harbor. We moor the boat. At the rental office, we still have to settle the fuel bill. No one is there. After a phone call, we are allowed to leave the fuel as is. We travel to Leeuwarden—Marco by bike, I by car. It’s less than a half-hour drive. I park the car in the downtown parking garage. I walk to the former prison Blokhuispoort. Tonight we will sleep in cell block H of the prison at hostel Alibi. The cell has two beds. The door closes hermetically. For my introduction to Leeuwarden, I follow the NS walking route through the center. I decide not to first walk to the station but to start the route at the prison. Leeuwarden originated from three terps (artificial mounds) on the shore of the Middelzee. In 1435, Leeuwarden received city rights, and since 1504 it has been the capital of the province. I pass the bridge over the Naauw. Ships could only pass one at a time here. The captain who first touched a stone in the quay wall was allowed to go first. The old “piksteen” (touchstone), full of holes, still testifies to this. At the Waagplein stands the Waag building.

Netherlands - Restaurants surround the weigh house of Leeuwarden

Until 1884, butter and cheese were weighed here. Nowadays, a restaurant is housed in the historic building. The terrace is full. Along the city canal quay stands the university. Leeuwarden has no university of its own. On the building is a large sign: “University of Groningen.” I follow the canal and turn toward Wilhelminaplein. Here stands the Palace of Justice. Large screens are set up on the square for tonight’s Oranje soccer match. Across the water is the Fries Museum. Via the theater, I arrive at the Oldehove, Leeuwarden’s leaning tower. Already during its construction in 1529, the tower of St. Vitus church began to sink. Due to the sinking, in the 16th century they decided to demolish the church nave. The risk of collapse was too great. The Oldehove tower remained standing. Via the Prinsentuin, I follow the former defensive wall. In the park, young people lie in the grass enjoying the nice weather. I continue through Leeuwarden’s narrow streets. I pass the Princessehof, today’s ceramics museum, and come by the highest point of the city—the terp where the city originated. Eventually, I end up at Raadhuisplein, a beautiful baroque city hall from 1715. Finally, I close the circular walk at the Jacobijnerkerk

Netherlands - The prison now houses a Stay OK hotel

. From here, I return to the hostel. On the former parade ground, a terrace has been set up. It’s not so easy to get a beer. With a QR code, you get the menu on your phone. Then you can place an order and must pay immediately. After that, someone brings your order. It seems convenient for the operator but lacks something personal. Hopefully, this will not become the new standard. The terrace fills up with orange supporters. The match will soon be shown on four screens. We haven’t eaten yet and decide to have dinner in the city center. At Wilhelminaplein, the Wilhelmus (Dutch national anthem) plays on the big screens. The crowd on the terraces sings along loudly. It’s wonderful that this is possible again. We sit a bit further along the canal on a terrace at a Turkish restaurant. No soccer is played here. Back at the hostel, we chat at the bar with other guests. It seems quiet in the cells, but except for two rooms, all are occupied.