Albania > The old town Butrint

On the veranda, a full breakfast is already laid out when we leave our room. “Would you like Turkish coffee or a large coffee?” “Large coffee, then.” Unfortunately, it also comes with coffee grounds in the cup, so we stick to tea. We load the luggage into the car and check the coolant and oil levels. The oil level is slightly low, so we top it up. One liter of oil in the first week is not unusual for a Land Rover. Today, we are heading to the far south of Albania, to the archaeological remains of the ancient Greek city of Butrint. We decide not to take the fastest route, but to drive along the coastal road. The beaches along the Albanian Riviera are praised in various travel guides. This means about five hours of driving to reach Butrint, even though the distance is “only” 233 kilometers. The first part of the drive is along the same road as yesterday. Then we turn toward Fier. Near Fier, we take a short stretch of highway to Vlora, which is only twenty kilometers long. We pass through Vlora and reach the Adriatic coast. Two days ago, Oscar had already mentioned on the ferry that the beaches just after the tunnel near Vlora are very beautiful. We can now confirm this. His second tip is less successful. Just past Vlora is a ten-kilometer-long peninsula. The road winds uphill. Oscar had said that from the highest point we would have a beautiful view of the coast and the Greek island of Corfu. As we drive upward, we enter the clouds. The summit is shrouded in thick mist, and we see nothing of the view. On the way down, it even starts to rain a little. The shower is very localized—just a few kilometers further, it is dry again. The road to Saranda, near Butrint, continues to rise and fall. Rocky outcrops alternate with beautiful beaches. We stop at a panoramic restaurant for a drink. To the left, it is cloudy; to the right, the sun shines.

Albania - The ancient theater in Butrint

In the distance, we can just make out Corfu. At Butrint, the weather has cleared. The sun is shining, and it is even oppressively warm. No rain has fallen here. The ancient city of Butrint was founded around 500 BC on a small peninsula. It was later expanded by the Romans, Byzantines, and eventually the Venetians. After the war with the Ottomans, the city was destroyed and fell into ruin. We walk among the remains. The amphitheater is well preserved, and performances are sometimes still held here. We pass the remnants of the palace, the forum, and the ordinary houses to reach the basilica. All side aisles of this church are still standing, though the roof is gone. The walking tour ends at the renovated castle. It was an impressive visit to this ancient city. In the late afternoon, we drive to Gjirokaster. We don’t need to follow the coastal road, but we do have to cross a mountain range. On the other side, dark clouds hang over the mountains. We are beginning to get used to the fact that every afternoon ends with a heavy thunderstorm. Today is no exception. As we enter Gjirokaster, a downpour begins. The streets flood, and water splashes onto our windshield from oncoming cars. The wipers work hard to clear the water. In the rain, we drive into the old town. The road climbs steeply between the old houses.

Albania - Parked in the old town center

We had received a text message from the hotel saying our hotel is near the Gjirokaster Hotel. When we arrive, we are supposed to send a message, and someone will come to guide us. Driving in the lowest gear, we make our way up the steep streets of the old town. Upon reaching the Gjirokaster Hotel, we don’t see our hotel. Outside, the rain is still relentless. Just as we are about to reply to the text, someone knocks on the window. “Are you looking for the Old Town Hotel?” The man gives instructions for parking and leads us to the somewhat hidden hotel. We wouldn’t have found it ourselves. While waiting for the rain to stop, we order a beer. A little after six, the weather clears. We walk through the old town. All the streets either slope steeply up or down. We wander back and forth through the narrow lanes. At this hour, many streets are quiet. When we have to climb steeply in one lane, an old woman gestures from her balcony for us to keep going. “Rain is coming,” we understand. In one of the old houses, there is a small restaurant. The sidewalk just has space for two chairs. The owner also recommends several local dishes in addition to the chicken kebab. This proves to be an excellent choice. Meanwhile, a World Cup match begins on a large screen in the square a little further on. We decide not to go and return to our hotel instead. It seems that football is playing in every shop and café we pass. The predicted new rainstorm never materializes.

Albania - Just enough space for two chairs on the sidewalk to eat