Albania > The ferry to Koman

The rain continues through the night. When the alarm goes off, it is still raining. The city of Prizren looks gloomy. Downstairs, breakfast is already ready. The owner who helped us park yesterday helps us again to get the car out. Enthusiastically, he waves us goodbye. It is a quarter past eight when we leave the city. The streets are still quiet, probably because today marks the end of Ramadan. The boy who guided us to the hotel yesterday mentioned that this is celebrated in Kosovo today. This may also explain why the shops are closed—almost everything seems shut. We had wanted to buy some water and food for the border. We drive a short distance back toward Peja and then turn toward Gjakovë. This seems to be the last major town before the border with Albania. We also want to refuel here. On this side of the border, we can still pay with euros. Suddenly, the border appears ahead of us. Actually, there is always some construction along the road, and we realize we have missed the town of Gjakovë. On the Kosovo side, there is no control at all. On the Albanian side, five cars are ahead of us. When we reach the counter, we are warmly welcomed. Our passports are registered, and we are allowed into Albania. The car does not need to be opened. We descend again via the mountain road. The border crossing went much smoother than expected, so we arrive very early in Fierze, the town where the ferry to Koman departs. We have tickets for the one o’clock boat. At the crossroads, everything seems to happen in Fierze. We refuel the car and, fortunately, can pay in euros. With the change in Albanian leks, we enter the shop across the street. Unfortunately, they have no bread here. Finally, we order a cola at the terrace at the same intersection. The ferry departs a few kilometers to the north. As we drive there, several ticket sellers beckon us, but we already have a reservation for the boat.

Albania - The ferry from Fierza to Koman

We park the car at the quay. The ferry has not yet arrived. We set up the chairs and study the travel guide. Much earlier than we expected, the boat arrives. All passengers and cars disembark, and then loading begins. All cars must board in reverse, which makes it easier to drive off later. First, some passenger cars go on, fitting under the passenger deck. Then it is our turn. Carefully, we drive the Land Rover in reverse onto the small ferry. With guidance from the crew, we park the car practically against the railing. Quickly, we take our belongings out of the car before a small bus parks beside us and blocks access further. From the upper deck, we watch the ship being loaded. The cars are parked with precision. Three cars are still waiting, but there is no more space. Yet all cars are squeezed in even closer, and one car is even half on the loading ramp. For the very last car, there is genuinely no space, so contact is made with a nearby ship to take it. After all the car maneuvering, it is time to depart. The journey takes us across the Komani Reservoir. The dam was built in 1980 by the communist regime. As soon as we set off, the stunning steep banks of the lake pass by. Unfortunately, the bar on board leaves something to be desired. Since we also couldn’t find bread earlier, we miss lunch. The rear door of the car opens just far enough to retrieve some breakfast bars and a bag of chips. At the bar, we buy a cold cola. While sailing, we strike up a conversation with fellow travelers. A Swiss couple is also traveling in a Land Rover; they have hiked near Montenegro. A Spanish man, Oscar, gives us plenty of tips along our route to Albania

Albania - The steep rocks along the Komani Reservoir

. After two and a half hours, we arrive at the dam in Koman. The boat docks at a small quay. Immediately behind the quay, a tunnel begins. We drive off the boat and continue straight through the tunnel to the other side of the mountain. From here begins a fifty-kilometer road through the mountains to Shkodër. The road is in poor condition, and we try to avoid the potholes as best as we can. By late afternoon, we approach the Rozafa Fortress near Shkodër. Reaching the fortress is not easy; we are repeatedly directed onto unpaved paths. Only after driving completely around the fort do we find the correct entrance. The ticket office is closed, but we can enter anyway. It turns out the castle is free to visit on holidays. Today is the end of Ramadan. Rozafa Fortress is a massive complex on a 130-meter-high rock. Its strategic location meant it was used as a fort even before the Common Era. The current fortress dates from the Venetian period. After visiting the fort, we drive into Shkodër. The hotel is right in the center. It takes a little searching through narrow streets, but we soon see a sign with the hotel name. We must enter a narrow alley. We can park the car directly in front of the hotel entrance. We are less than a hundred meters from the pedestrian promenade full of terraces. Many terraces have television screens showing football matches, but we choose one without football and order a drink. Further down the street, we find a cozy restaurant. While watching all the people pass by, we enjoy our meal. From the other terraces, we hear occasional cheers whenever a goal is scored.

Albania - The Rozafa Fort near Shkoder