Slovenia > The lake of Bled

Just after eight o’clock, a full breakfast is ready in the breakfast room. At the set tables, we notice that two guests had stayed overnight. We estimate that the guesthouse has five or six rooms. “Would you like coffee or tea?” the owner asks kindly. While pointing outside, she mentions that it is exceptionally clear and sunny—after days of nothing but rain and fog. Outside, we see Heiligenblut bathed in sunlight, with the snow-covered mountain peaks behind it. Today, we are heading to Slovenia—a relatively short journey. We take the alpine roads onto the main A10 highway. The seven-kilometer-long Karawanken Tunnel forms the border between Austria and Slovenia. Like Austria, Slovenia requires a vignette to use the highways. However, the vignette was not available in the Netherlands beforehand. We exit the highway at the first gas station to purchase one. Not far after that, the exit for Bled appears. Lake Bled is one of Slovenia’s main tourist attractions. On the small island in the lake stands the Assumption of Mary Church, dating from the 9th century. Together with Bled Castle on the cliffs and the snow-covered mountains behind, it forms a beautiful scene. We are clearly not alone. In Bled itself, we can’t find a parking spot. We follow the stream of cars around the lake. The view of the church is beautiful from every angle. The parking area on the opposite side is also full. It’s Sunday, and many local Slovenians are enjoying the sunny weather on the lakeside beaches. The girl at the parking area advises us to drive to the station, saying there should be parking there.

Slovenia - The Church of the Assumption on the island in the lake

This proves to be correct. We walk back to the lake. Children play in the water, and boats ferry visitors to the island. We cross the road and begin the climb up one of the hills around the lake. At the top, there is supposed to be a nice viewpoint. Other hikers returning from their walk point the way: “Just follow the path straight ahead,” they say, warning us that it climbs steeply. The oppressive heat makes the climb strenuous, but the view from the top makes it worthwhile. Below us, we see Bled, the island, and the castle. The descent is easier. Once back down, we settle on a terrace for lunch. In the afternoon, we plan to walk through the nearby Vintgar Gorge—a trail winding through rocks, with wooden footbridges on some paths to cross certain areas. When entering the address into Google Maps, a warning pops up saying the gorge is closed today. Surely not? Since it’s nearby, we decide to drive there. The navigation does not take the usual route, but probably the shortest one. We pass through narrow village streets where only one car can fit at a time. The parking lot has very few cars. Other Dutch visitors confirm that the gorge is indeed closed. A shame! You can walk around the area a little, but there aren’t many options, they say. Or perhaps it’s not so bad. Dark clouds gather, and thick drops begin to fall. Within minutes, a heavy downpour breaks out.

Slovenia - Camping at Lake Bohinj

Water streams over the road. We decide not to walk and drive straight to the campsite at Lake Bohinj instead. The recommendation for this campsite came from the travel fair earlier this year. The campsite in Bled is very busy, the man from Slovenia Promotions had said. At the campsite, the reception is closed until four o’clock. A note reads: “Find a spot and register later.” The campsite slopes steeply toward the lake. It takes some effort to find a reasonably flat area. We park the Land Rover and set up the tent. Other Dutch visitors mention that it has hardly rained here—hopefully, it stays that way tonight. Lake Bohinj looks magnificent. On the far side, steep forested cliffs rise high above the lake. A few people venture into the water; others opt for the safer canoes. We choose the campsite terrace and order a beer. In the evening, we prepare a simple soup for dinner. Before going to bed, we walk through the village and along the lake. We follow a marked path along the water. Where the cold meltwater from the mountain stream meets the warmer lake water, a mysterious mist forms above the surface, making it feel instantly cooler. The village of Ukanc is modest—about ten houses, a few hotels, and a campsite. Back at the tent, we sit outside until the sun fully disappears behind the mountains.

Slovenia - The beautiful Bohinj Lake