Croatia > The Plitvice lakes and Una N.P.

When I wake up, it’s raining lightly. This means we won’t be able to pack the tent up dry. Both of us are already awake before the alarm goes off. At seven o’clock, we get up. With the provisions we have with us, we make a breakfast—rusk with chocolate spread. At the campsite, we can only buy bread rolls from half past eight, but by then we already want to be on our way. At eight o’clock, we pack up the tent and check out at the reception. We drive along Lake Bohinj back toward Bled. From there, we take the highway toward Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana. Despite it being Monday morning, the traffic is not overly busy. Afterwards, we set course for Zagreb. Before crossing the border into Croatia, we want to withdraw some euros. We enter an ATM into the navigation system. When we arrive at the location, we only see a post office; the rest of the area looks deserted. Asking inside, we learn there used to be an ATM. The girl kindly offers to help us get cash. When we withdraw from her, she gives us the money directly. Problem solved. Nearby, we also fill the car with fuel. We don’t realize at first that we are using a diesel pump meant for trucks. Within seconds, the tank is full—diesel even gushes out. A few kilometers further is the border with Croatia. There is no queue, and we pass the border fairly quickly.

Croatia - Walkways allow crossing the Plitvice Lakes

Just after the border, we pass through a toll gate. Croatia doesn’t have vignettes but charges tolls, which ultimately comes to the same thing. We continue toward Zagreb and then follow the route to Karlovac. Since the journey is going smoothly and we are practically passing near the Croatian Plitvice Lakes, we decide to visit them as well. When we enter the parking area, it’s clear we are definitely not alone. Quickly, we order a sandwich at the entrance and walk into the nature park. Plitvice Lakes National Park consists of a mix of lakes and waterfalls. From above, we can see the series of rapids. We descend along a walking path to the water’s edge. A wooden footbridge allows us to cross to the other side. From the bridge, we see the beautifully clear blue water—a stunning environment. Through a steep staircase in a cave, we walk back to the entrance. This was a lovely addition to our program for the day. The Plitvice Lakes are near the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s only a few kilometers to the border, and again there is no traffic jam. We enter Bosnia. The first town across the border is Bihac. Here we look for a bank to obtain Bosnian currency. After asking around a few times, we find an ATM. Next, we need to locate Una National Park. A passerby explains that we should turn right over the bridge, and then we’ll come across it. Along the road, we see no signs or directions—will it be okay? When we are almost at the entrance, we finally see a sign. We turn quickly. The entrance booth with the ticket office is deserted, and the gate is open. We decide to drive into the park without a ticket.

Croatia - The trbacki Buk waterfall in Una National Park

We take an unpaved path. It certainly helps that we have a 4x4 Land Rover. Fourteen kilometers later, we are slowly driving over the bumpy road. There is no one in sight. When we reach the Una River, this changes. On the left, there is a small terrace, and on the right, a parking lot with a few cars. Some men are working on maintaining the area. A wooden walking path leads us to the Strbacki buk waterfall. The water from the Una River crashes down with a loud roar. Through the clear water, it’s a magnificent sight. We don’t have much time to enjoy it, as the forest drive took longer than expected. It’s already past five o’clock, and there are still at least seventy kilometers to our next accommodation. We quickly leave Una National Park via the other side and head toward Drvar. A large sign by the road points to the Etno Selo Dodig campsite. We turn onto an unpaved path. Enthusiastically, a sign hangs from the trees with a speed limit of 130 km/h. The owner meets us. “You must be from the Netherlands?” He explains that we are the only guests staying overnight today. He quickly introduces his son, Stridos, who speaks English.

Croatia - The apartment at the campsite in Dvrar

The boy offers us the option to stay in the apartment at no extra cost. The apartment is a wooden cabin with three beds and electricity. Our original accommodation had no power, which we didn’t know when booking. This upgrade seems perfect. We enjoy a beer in front of our cabin. A little later, dinner is served here: traditional goulash and a lamb dish. The other guests in the restaurant gradually leave. Around half past nine, the owner also leaves the site. We remain alone in our accommodation. Tomorrow morning at nine, they will return for breakfast. In the surrounding area, there is no one else present. It feels a little strange when, just before half past ten, we turn off the lights.