North Macedonia > The capital Skopje

The sun is already shining fully on the tent at seven o’clock in the morning. It immediately becomes warm in our roof tent. We get out. This comes in handy, as the warm water supply at the campsite is limited to three times a day. In the morning, there is only hot water between six and eight o’clock.After breakfast, we pack our things and leave Struga. When we told the campsite owner yesterday that we wanted to visit the Sveta Jovan Monastery, he immediately got excited. “The road to Debar is so beautiful with the lakes alongside it,” he said. “You should also definitely stop at the Rajcica women’s monastery,” he explained.The mountainous road is indeed beautiful. The sun shines through the trees. The water in the reservoir is perfectly still, reflecting the opposite shore. Just past Debar, a sign indicates the Rajcica Monastery. The path to the monastery descends steeply. The door of the monastery seems closed, although a sign says we are welcome. When someone comes out, it turns out we just needed to push harder against the gate.We can visit the small church of the monastery for about two euros per person. Photos are not allowed. A girl opens the door of the small church just for us. Inside, the church is overwhelmingly decorated. Impressive! Beautiful frescoes cover all walls and ceilings. A huge chandelier hangs above the altar, and behind it is a finely gilded iconostasis. The splendor in this small church is indescribable.The girl guiding us is not a nun herself; she helps as a volunteer. She shows a book with photos of beautifully gilded mitre crowns. The nuns in this monastery make these headpieces for the bishops. Impressed, we leave the monastery. We are grateful to the campsite owner for this tip.About half an hour further is the Sveti Jovan Biogrdski Monastery. It is said that in the eleventh century the incarnation of John the Baptist was seen at this place. The monastery has been expanded several times. During the communist period, the monastery fell into disrepair. Fortunately, the complex has been restored.

North Macedonia - The beautiful Sveta Jovan Monastery in the Macedonian mountains

Through the entrance gate, we walk into the monastery. A man rushes after us. Tickets! We must pay an entrance fee. In this monastery, there are still about thirty monks and around thirty volunteers. One of the volunteers shows us the church. This church is just as beautiful and decorated as the previous one. It is impressive how so much splendor can be gathered together.After this monastery, we leave the mountains and drive via the toll road to Skopje. At the first toll booth, we pay 60 denar (about one euro). Ten kilometers further, we pass another toll booth. Up to the capital, we pass four toll booths. It seems as if we have to pay again every ten kilometers.Via a wide boulevard, we finally enter Skopje. It does not feel like we are already in the city center when we park our Land Rover at the hotel. Still, it is only 700 meters to walk to the central square of Skopje. The city has a unique architecture. It seems as if all architectural styles have been mixed. Old and new buildings stand around the central square. Ostentatious fountains and numerous statues decorate the square. It all seems bombastic.In a restaurant along the river, we order a sandwich. On the opposite side, the town hall is built in Greek style from white marble. After lunch, we walk across the river into the Carsija district, a neighborhood resembling an oriental bazaar. Small shops are everywhere: souvenirs, Turkish cafés, but also antiques or military items. We wander through the narrow streets. It is not difficult to get lost here. Fortunately, the nearby castle rises above the district—a good point of orientation.On the way to the castle lies the Jovas Pass Church.

North Macedonia - The center of the capital city Skopje

This church is built lower than ground level. In the fourteenth century, according to Ottoman law, it was not allowed to build higher than the mosque. By digging the church two meters into the ground, it could be built. The church can be visited until five o’clock. Although it is not yet five, the ticket office is already closed. The security guard complains that the seller has left fifteen minutes ago. The manager is not here today, so she went home earlier. He apologizes that he cannot open the church for us. “Tomorrow morning,” he sighs.From the castle, we have a view of the city. The castle grounds are somewhat overgrown and have lost some of their charm. The two museums are closed. We return to the old town for a drink.In the evening, we go to eat near the hotel. The receptionist recommended several restaurants. When we step onto the terrace, a table is free under the awning. It is drizzling lightly. It seems that many tables have already been reserved. The waiters continuously move tables, place extra umbrellas, and then remove them again. The arrangement on the terrace becomes increasingly messy. There is hardly any room left for the waiters to pass. Some waiters are visibly annoyed. You would think they deal with this every evening. We give them a hand by paying the bill, which frees up a table again.