Slovakia > The Tatra mountains

At six o’clock, the bells in the nearby church start ringing. At a quarter past six, they ring again. This repeats every fifteen minutes. As a result, we are awake well before the alarm clock. Why could that be?Breakfast is in the restaurant below the hotel. The restaurant is decorated entirely in knightly style—shields, goblets, and suits of armor. Behind the breakfast area is a large hall where, most likely, lavish medieval banquets could be held. We ‘only’ have the choice from the breakfast menu. The main decision is how we would like our eggs.The hotel reception is still deserted. We place the room key on the counter and leave Miskolc. Today we are driving on to Slovakia. On the way to the border, we stop briefly at a petrol station to exchange our remaining Hungarian forints for diesel. Still, we manage to get fifteen liters. As we approach the border, we have our passports and car papers ready.We are greatly surprised when we drive into Slovakia without any form of control. Do Hungary and Slovakia belong to the Schengen area? We don’t mind too much, as we have a full program today.

Slovakia - Spis Castle towers high above the surroundings

Our first stop is Spissky Castle. The ruins of this old castle are perched strategically on a rocky outcrop. We can see the castle from far away. It’s no wonder this is one of the most photographed sights in Slovakia.The castle consists of three sections. The outer wall surrounds the lower yard. Around the entrance is the middle yard, and via a steep path, we reach the gate of the upper castle. From the castle, there is a wide view over the surrounding area. Especially with today’s fine weather, we can see far into the distance. On the horizon lie the mountain ranges of the Low and High Tatras. These ranges form the border with Poland.At the foot of the Tatra Mountains lies the fortified town of Levoca. We park the car near the monumental Kosice Gate. We think we are parked legally and don’t need to pay here. Since all the signage is in Slovak, we’re not entirely sure. We take the risk.The old town center of Levoca is still surrounded by its original city wall.

Slovakia - The town hall and church in Levoca

On the town square, we admire the beautiful façades of the surrounding buildings. We visit the Lutheran church and the fine old town hall. On a terrace, we order lunch. Although it doesn’t seem very busy, it takes a long time before the dishes arrive. The wait was worth it—the Levoca specialty, a kind of folded-over pancake with chicken, meat, and sauce, tastes excellent.The Tatra Mountains, in terms of area, are a relatively small range but with steep, impressive peaks. More than twenty summits rise above 2,500 meters. Between the peaks lie beautiful mountain lakes. We drive to the Strbské Pleso mountain lake, at about 1,350 meters in elevation. It is said to be one of the most beautiful spots in the Tatras.We park the car in a village with a touristy feel. It is clear that this is a ski village in winter. As we walk around the lake, we see the beautiful blue color of the water contrasting against the backdrop of the mountain range.

Slovakia - The mountain lake in the Tatra mountains

Late in the afternoon, we drive to our final stop. Our hotel is near the traditional village of Vlkolínec, but also far from everything else. The door of the guesthouse is locked. When we ring the bell, an older man opens the door. He speaks no English, and we speak no Slovak. Still, we manage to register, get the information about the Wi-Fi and breakfast, and eventually receive the room key.The guesthouse used to have its own restaurant, but it is now closed. About a kilometer away, there is another restaurant, the man explains. That’s where we can have dinner. We decide to walk there. It turns out to be a motel along the main road. As we enter, the two other guests are just paying their bill. Apart from them, there’s no one else.Today, I try the goulash. For beer, I can choose between ten or twelve percent. This is not the alcohol content—that would be a bit much. The food is good, and the beer is nice. Just as we receive a second drink, the waiter comes with the bill. Could we pay? The restaurant is closing. It’s not even eight o’clock yet.