Greece > The caves of Alistrati

In the morning, as I head to the shower, I discover there’s no water between 11:00 PM and 9:00 AM. This doesn’t exactly improve the camping experience. Fortunately, cold water still comes from the tap, so I wash my face. We pack up the tent and leave the campsite. We drive along the coastal road heading north. In one of the seaside towns, we order a cappuccino with a view of the Aegean Sea. A wonderful feeling. Nobody seems to be in a hurry here. We get onto the highway and drive toward Thessaloniki. We pass through a toll booth.

Greece - First offroad experience with Brutus

We are surprised when, a little further along, we have to pay another toll for what seems to us to be the same highway. Driving further east, we pass yet another toll booth. The amounts aren’t high, but all together it adds up for such a relatively short distance. Near Serres, we leave the highway and head inland. Along the road, there’s a sign pointing to an Ancient Roman aqueduct. We go looking for it. The paved road soon ends. We can choose from three dirt tracks. The left one seems to go nowhere. We choose the second, but it ends shortly after in an olive grove. We decide to take the third, steepest path uphill. In low gear, we drive upward. After about 500 meters of jolting and bouncing, it’s clear this isn’t the right path either. Still, we get a nice view of the coast from this height. On the way back, we discover that the remains of the aqueduct are practically right next to the turn-off. It’s not very impressive. We continue on to Alistrati. In the town center, we park our Land Rover in front of a small eatery. The owner comes straight to meet us. He worked in Germany for 30 years and wants to know everything about our trip. He translates our travel itinerary for the other guests on the terrace, mostly older men from the village. Meanwhile, his wife brings out a delicious lunch. When he hears that we still want to visit the Alistrati caves, he quickly hands us two discount vouchers. As we drive off, he wishes us a safe journey. The Alistrati caves are among the largest underground cave systems in Europe. At the entrance, it’s not immediately clear where to buy tickets.

Greece - The stunning stalactite caves of Alistrati

There’s no one around except staff. We are directed to the ticket counter. The next guided tour starts in forty minutes. Independent entry is not allowed, so we have no choice but to wait. Just as it’s nearly time, we hear the sound of motorcycles—it’s the bikers. That morning, they first went to Thessaloniki to visit the KTM dealer for supplies for their bikes. They quickly throw some things in the Land Rover, buy a ticket, and make it just in time for the tour. There are no other tourists. The girl giving the tour seems a bit uncomfortable. She speaks very little English and is relieved when we read aloud the English explanations provided. The caves are filled with stalactites and stalagmites, a particularly beautiful combination. Dripstone formations hang everywhere, each more stunning than the last. There is also striking coral rock. It’s good that we set aside time for these magnificent caves. From Alistrati, we drive on to our overnight stop in Xanthi. The hotel is in the city center. Again, the Land Rover cannot fit under the entrance to the parking area, so we are allowed to park right in front of the hotel. On the central square, some men help us find a nice restaurant, where we eat gyros. Afterward, we walk through the old town. Xanthi turns out to be a lively, vibrant student city. Numerous terraces and trendy cafés fill the old town. The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming—a lovely place to say goodbye to Greece. Tomorrow, we’ll continue our journey to Turkey.