Albania > From Gjirokaster to Metsovo

Today we decide not only to drive to Gjirokaster but also to continue across the border into Greece. We plan to drive all the way to Metsovo so that the following day we have more time for Meteora. Just as we are about to leave, Milko’s motorcycle won’t start. A battery problem. With the jumper cables from Brutus, we get the battery working again. Slightly later than planned, we set off. Near the campsite, there is a site where old MiG jet fighters are displayed.

Albania - An old American airplane is displayed at the castle of Gjirokaster

It’s not clear if we can get close, but it’s worth a try. Through a rough, unpaved, pothole-filled road, we reach the military area. The gate is closed, and in the distance, we immediately see soldiers standing up. They walk toward us. At the gate, they signal that we are not allowed on the grounds and that we cannot take photos. This was expected, but it’s still a shame. Hopefully, the dashcam is still recording. Via Fier, we head toward Gjirokaster. The route is partly over an old, poor-quality road, but also largely over a new highway. Around 1:30 PM, we enter Gjirokaster. Via a very steep and narrow road, the navigation leads us up to the castle. We slowly drive upward in low gear. I estimate the slope to be more than 20 degrees. When we need to make a sharp turn, we decide to park the car and continue on foot. Construction workers point us to a staircase leading to the entrance. The castle of Gjirokaster is a 12th-century fortress built against the mountainside. Since 2005, the castle and the old town have been on the UNESCO World Heritage list. On the central grounds of the castle stands an old American airplane. The pilot ran into trouble in 1957 and had to land in Albania. The aircraft was confiscated. On the other side of the castle, there is a beautiful Orthodox church. On the way back, we pass the old prisons and the vaults. Here, many old cannons and even a small tank are displayed.

Albania - The old atmospheric district of Gjirokaster

In front of the castle, we quickly have lunch. The kebab turns out not to be the expected type of kebab; it is a kind of soup with meat. Not very remarkable. Before crossing the border, we fill up the car with fuel. We gather all the remaining Leks and buy fuel with them. A few kilometers further, we reach the border. There is no one ahead of us. The Albanian customs officer waves us over from his little hut. We had chosen the wrong lane. He stamps our passports. On the Greek side, things also go quickly. “Hi Holland. Ajax or PSV Eindhoven?” the officer asks, laughing. Just as we are about to drive off, we are called back. There is another counter. As we reverse, someone comes out and signals that everything is fine. We may proceed. We are in Greece. A wide, gently winding road runs through the mountains. In the villages, we need to be careful. There are many speed cameras along the road, while it’s not always clear what the speed limit is. From Pedini, we take the highway to Metsovo—a road cutting through the Pindos Mountains. We pass tunnel after tunnel. Finally, around 6:30 PM, we arrive in Metsovo. It is one hour later in Greece than in Albania. To reach the hotel, we must take a steep, narrow road. We drive slowly upward. When we try to turn into the parking area, the car is too tall for the garage. With permission, we park tightly in front of the garage entrance. Probably no more guests are expected today. Metsovo is a small mountain village where old traditions of wood carving, embroidery, cheese, and wine have been preserved. Children play soccer on a field next to the church. Older men sit together, chatting through the day. The souvenir shops close their doors. The village has a cozy, friendly atmosphere.