Kyrgyzstan > Vodka by Lake Kolsai

We set out for the final stretch through Kyrgyzstan. We drive for a little over an hour along Lake Issyk-Kul. Today the water is much calmer. On the far side of the lake, the snow-capped mountain peaks are now visible. The town of Karakol is the largest settlement around the lake, located on its eastern side.

Kyrgyzstan - Because the bridge collapsed we have to cross through the river

We use this town only to do some shopping, have a coffee, and refuel. Afterwards, we head toward the border via Tyup. The quality of the road is remarkably good. Only the last 25 kilometers to the border are unpaved—or at least, asphalt was previously laid here, but as in so many places, it’s better to drive along the shoulder than through the potholes in the road. Around noon, we approach the border. On the narrow road, four barriers stand in a row. Exiting Kyrgyzstan is relatively quick. There is only one car ahead of us. The stamp is quickly given, and no baggage check is required. On the Kazakh side, it takes longer.

Kyrgyzstan - Tree trunks stand upright in Kaindy Lake

There is a line of people at the customs window. After we get the stamp here as well, the car inspection follows. Almost every crate and compartment has to be opened. Still, it only takes about an hour and a half to cross both border posts. We are officially in Kazakhstan. Just past the border town of Kegen, we stop by the side of the road for lunch—lovely in the sunshine. Then we set off toward the Kolsai Lakes. This is still quite a trip—not so much in distance, but the road is poor. Very poor. We drive more than eighty kilometers over unpaved terrain, which takes hours. Along the way, we meet an old truck with Kazakhs. They want to know where we are going and if we want vodka. Not just yet. Laughing, they get back in and drive on. So do we. From the village of Saty, it’s another twelve kilometers along a dirt track to Lake Kaindy. The road is little more than a rutted trail. Oncoming cars can be passed along the shoulder. Suddenly, we reach a river.

Kyrgyzstan - Drinking vodka with Cossacks at Kaindy Lake

From other drivers, we learn that it’s better to cross the river further on; here the water is too high. We drive a stretch along the riverbed. For the motorcycles, it is a challenge. Fortunately, they cross the river without any problems. A little further, it’s easier. The bridge over the river has been partially washed away. Motorcycles can pass, but for our Land Rover, the bridge is too narrow. We have to cross the river again. The front of the car goes underwater, but Brutus climbs up the other side without any trouble. Around seven o’clock, we approach the entrance to the national park. Here, entrance fees must be paid. Then follow the last kilometers to Lake Kaindy. Lake Kaindy was formed in 1910 by a landslide. The trees that once stood where the current lake is now still rise from the water as straight pillars—a remarkable sight combined with the clear blue water. Near the lake, several people are camping. Many local Kazakhs have come to this spot specifically for the weekend. After dinner, we join a campfire. Some of the men speak a little English. I am immediately offered vodka. There is singing, laughter, and drinking—a wonderful introduction to the Kazakhs.