Mongolia > From Bayankhongor to Arvaikheer

Because we only went to bed after two o’clock last night, we get up late this morning. We discuss what to do today. The rear sprocket of Milko’s motorcycle is in such bad shape that he would prefer to ride to the KTM dealer in Ulaanbaatar as soon as possible. Several teeth of the sprocket have broken off. We decide to ride on to Arvaikheer today. From there, we can continue by car toward the old capital Kharkhorin, while the motorcyclists head on to Ulaanbaatar. At the Seoul Hotel we order lunch. It takes forever. Surely it can’t be that difficult to serve chicken soup. When the food finally arrives, it isn’t even what we ordered. Meanwhile, it has started raining again outside. Large puddles cover the entire width of the road. We drive to the Lamyn Gegeenii Gon Gandan Dedlin Khiid Monastery. Originally this monastery stood outside the city, but during the communist regime it was completely destroyed. Only twenty years ago it was rebuilt at the edge of the city. A monk welcomes me and invites me to view the temple. When I ask if I may take photos, he laughs and says no—then quickly adds, of course I can.

Mongolia - The Vinex district of Bayanghongor

In the middle stands a painting. When I ask if it is the Dalai Lama, he nods in confirmation. Could this be the young Tibetan Dalai Lama? Elsewhere in the city stands a stupa high on the sacred hill. We climb up via a staircase. It is drizzling lightly, and dark clouds hang over the mountains. Unfortunately, the stupa is marred by a nearby television tower. From the platform I have a view over the entire city. It is striking to see that the outer districts consist of streets with small, fenced-in plots of land, each with a ger on it. District after district. Occasionally there is a real house in between. Before leaving Bayankhongor we want to refuel. We have plenty of choice—I estimate at least fifteen gas stations along the same road. All of them display prices on large signs. At the station we choose, one sign says 1550 tögrög (about 75 cents) for a liter of diesel, another side of the board says 1880, and the pump itself shows 1690 (like all the other stations). Confusing. The price at the pump turns out to be correct. The distance to Arvaikheer is just over 200 kilometers. Yesterday we heard from the Dutch traveler that part of the road was still unpaved but would soon turn into proper asphalt. When we leave the city, we quickly notice that this last stretch has now also been paved. His information was already two years out of date. We drive eastwards on a perfect asphalt road. Just as well, because it’s already half past three by the time we leave Bayankhongor. Just before Arvaikheer, a Buddhist-looking monument stands along the roadside. The monument honors horses. From bystanders we learn that this is where the horses are commemorated that won the races during the Naadam festival. Around the monument are stupas. Judging from the plaques, I assume that deceased horses are buried here. Behind the Buddha statue lie the skeletons of horses. Just as we are standing there, five cars arrive with a police escort. Perhaps the winners of this year’s Naadam festival races? I’m not sure. We drive on to Arvaikheer. It is raining when we arrive at the hotel. In the restaurant I order a beer. We decide to stay and eat there as well.