Tajikistan > Landslides

Up early. At half past seven, we leave Dushanbe. We choose to take the northern route to Kalaikum. The southern route is over a hundred kilometers longer. The navigation system wants to guide us along the southern route as the fastest option. If we switch off “avoid unpaved roads,” the northern route works. The first stretch is a good road. Again, the weather is pleasant, and the traffic is light. Other vehicles stick remarkably well to the speed limit. We follow them. Perhaps because of this, we can pass most police checks without problems. Oncoming cars signal regularly. It’s not always clear whether this is just a greeting or a warning for controls. I think it’s the former. After about seventy kilometers, the asphalt ends.

Tajikistan - Water flowing over the mountain road

We continue over a rocky road. As we turn toward Karogh, the road climbs gradually. Because the road is unpaved, we cannot make much speed. It seems the northern route is the unpaved mountain pass, and the southern, longer route is the main road. This means we have almost two hundred kilometers of unpaved road ahead—eight to ten hours of driving. The road follows the Obikhingou River upward. The scenery is stunning. Small streams flow down from the mountains into the river. Sometimes the road has been washed away, and we drive on detours. In one mountain stream, a car is stranded. Its wheels slip on the loose stones. Another car pulls it out. Even for the motorcycles, the river crossings are tricky. Some local men help them through. We cannot find a proper place for lunch. At a small shop, I buy some drinks and a few Snickers. Further along, we come across cars and people near a riverbed. Something is happening. There has been a mudslide. Here, too, a car is stuck in the mud on the far side of the water. Bystanders try to pull it out. When I try to walk across, I feel the force of the water. It is hard to stay upright. On the other side, it is muddy. The moment I step off the road, I sink thirty centimeters into the mud. The slide must have happened recently.

Tajikistan - The motorcyclists receive help from construction workers

We transfer the motorbikes’ luggage to the car to make them as light as possible. Meanwhile, other cars drive through the water flow. I hear boulders hitting the undersides of the cars. This cannot be good. Brutus drives through the river and the muddy section behind without problems. I try to help the motorcyclists across the river, but it doesn’t help much. I have too much trouble staying upright. The water splashes above my knees. Without major issues, everyone reaches the other side, though it takes time. We push on. Soon, new problems. A man stands with his arms crossed. The road is blocked. There has been a landslide, and boulders lie all over the path. We cannot pass here. What now? The man gestures that a little backtracking will allow a detour through a dry riverbed. It is a rocky, bumpy path. When I see a truck coming from the other side, I think it should be fine. Still, there are tricky sections where I am glad we have a low gear. Without problems, we return to the main path. It is now half past four. We still have seventy-five kilometers to Kalaikum. Based on the pace of the past few hours, that will take at least three to four hours. We decide to keep going and see how far we get. If we don’t make it before dark, we’ll pitch the tents somewhere.

Tajikistan - Due to a recent mudslide the road was washed away We must go through the river

The mountain pass climbs higher and higher, and the sun drops lower and lower. On some stretches, we drive straight into the sun. It is difficult to find the smoothest line without potholes or bumps. We approach the remaining snow on the mountains—a beautiful sight. At 3,258 meters, we pass the Khaburabot Pass, the highest point of the route. Soon after, the descent begins. If we don’t reach Kalaikum, it will be more comfortable temperature-wise to camp at a lower altitude. The pass drops quickly. Deep valleys lie to our left, steep cliffs to our right. We descend toward Kalaikum via hairpin bends. The distance is only ten kilometers, but by now it is completely dark. We decide to drive the last stretch anyway. With all the lights on our Land Rover, we arrive in Kalaikum at quarter to nine. A man stands in the middle of the street making motorcycle gestures. The motorcyclists drove ahead and have probably already arranged accommodations— a four-person room including dinner and breakfast. Perfect. Looking at Brutus, we realize we have lost our license plate. It must have been shaken off by the rough road. We have also lost a rear mudguard. This is less important.