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Turkey > The D915 is 'Kapali' (closed)

Dag 17 - Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Last night we were completely alone on the campsite. The owner had locked the gate yesterday. This morning, around eight o’clock, someone arrives to open it again. When we wake up, the sun is already shining on the tent. The sea lies calm—a beautiful scene. In the little shop, we get some bread, and with our own coffee, we have a fine breakfast. During breakfast, we discuss the route. We are heading to Trabzon. Near Trabzon, we want to visit the Sumela Monastery and take the D915 pass. The D915 is a hairpin-road along the mountainside. Because of the sharp turns, sometimes you have to “cut” the corners.

Turkey - The D915 route is considered one of the most dangerous roads in Turkey It was closed due to a landslide

It seems most practical (and safest) to drive this pass from bottom to top. Therefore, we decide first to drive past Trabzon and enter the D915 one valley further. At the end lies the spectacular mountain pass near Bayburt. Tomorrow, we can drive back to Trabzon via the Sumela Monastery. While refueling, a truck driver enthusiastically asks where we’re going and if the jerrycans are filled. When he hears “Japan,” he immediately wants to take a photo of the car. Then he rushes to his truck to tell his friend. Further along at a small eatery, the owner wants to know everything about our journey. His son watches too. In hindsight, he probably should have paid more attention in geography class, because in Europe he only gets as far as “Servistan.” When we leave, we are hugged and given two cheek kisses. Through the D915 valley runs a fast-flowing stream, probably fed by a combination of snowmelt and recent rainfall. The road climbs quickly. At the turn-off to Bayburt, a sign warns of poor road conditions.

Turkey - Traveling with Brutus in the D915 valley

Roadworks are underway everywhere to widen the route. Some sections are completed, others are still rough dirt tracks. The final stretch climbs with sharp hairpin turns. As we pass a small village, someone gestures for us to stop. The route to Bayburt is “kapali,” which must mean closed, judging by the gestures. “Kapali, kapali!” We decide to continue a little further, knowing we will probably have to return the same way. The road gets worse, and in some bends, we have to “cut” the turn to make it. In low gear, our Land Rover climbs effortlessly. Another man by the roadside also signals that the route ends here. On the navigation, he points exactly to the hairpin section that is closed. Almost at the top, we see the road. A man here explains in Turkish that part of the route has collapsed. We cannot go further. However, he points to a newly built route a little way back. It is getting dark, and it begins to rain lightly. We decide not to take on this challenge and drive back to the town of Of at the start of the valley. A good choice, as the rain becomes heavier on the return. Just before the coastal road, the navigation directs us left. We drive down a side street to reach our hotel. It turns out our hotel is on the main road, but in the eastbound direction. To avoid having to drive tens of kilometers further before turning around, we are led along a back path. The path becomes unpaved and runs past houses in the mountains. Below us, we can already see the hotel. Once we can rejoin the highway heading east, it’s only a short distance to our overnight stay.

DesertDriving through the desert in Turkmenistan
BayanghongorThe Vinex district of Bayanghongor
HelpersThanks to the help of some yurt residents we got the car free again

Travelogue From Amsterdam to Tokyo

Dag 1 | Netherlands > Departure from Amsterdam
Dag 2 | Germany > Through Germany
Dag 3 | Austria > Ljubljana Castle
Dag 4 | Croatia > Plitvice Lakes in the rain
Dag 5 | Bosnia and Herzegovina > By the Bay of Kotor
Dag 6 | Montenegro > Across the Albanian border
Dag 7 | Albania > Driving through Tirana
Dag 8 | Albania > Ottoman houses of Berat
Dag 9 | Albania > From Gjirokaster to Metsovo
Dag 10 | Greece > The monasteries of Meteora
Dag 11 | Greece > The caves of Alistrati
Dag 12 | Greece > The Horse of Troy
Dag 13 | Turkey > The Temple of Athena
Dag 14 | Turkey > Historic Safranbolu
Dag 15 | Turkey > Football party in Amasya
Dag 16 | Turkey > Driving license returned
Dag 17 | Turkey > The D915 is 'Kapali' (closed)
Dag 18 | Turkey > To Batumi in Georgia
Dag 19 | Georgia > A typical Russian hotel
Dag 20 | Georgia > The mountain road to Ushguli
Dag 21 | Georgia > Party at the Imperial Hotel
Dag 22 | Georgia > From Kusaisi to Gori
Dag 23 | Georgia > Tsminda Sameba Church Kasbeki
Dag 24 | Georgia > The only hotel seems closed
Dag 25 | Georgia > The heating is broken
Dag 26 | Georgia > Independence Day in Tbilisi
Dag 27 | Georgia > Crossing the border to Azerbaijan
Dag 28 | Azerbaijan > Mud volcanoes of Gobustan
Dag 29 | Azerbaijan > Waiting for the boat
Dag 30 | Azerbaijan > Are we already in Turkmenistan?
Dag 31 | Azerbaijan > Stuck on the Caspian Sea
Dag 32 | Azerbaijan > Finally Turkmenistan
Dag 33 | Turkmenistan > Still going to Yangykala
Dag 34 | Turkmenistan > Swimming in an underground cave
Dag 35 | Turkmenistan > 'No Pictures, No Pictures'
Dag 36 | Turkmenistan > The border is closed
Dag 37 | Uzbekistan > Enchanting Khiva
Dag 38 | Uzbekistan > Wandering through old Khiva
Dag 39 | Uzbekistan > Through the Kyzylkum desert
Dag 40 | Uzbekistan > The Registan Square of Samarkand
Dag 41 | Uzbekistan > The palace of Timur Lenk
Dag 42 | Uzbekistan > Smuggling porn
Dag 43 | Tajikistan > The capital of Tajikistan
Dag 44 | Tajikistan > Landslides
Dag 45 | Tajikistan > The exhaust breaks off
Dag 46 | Tajikistan > Bathing in a mineral bath
Dag 47 | Tajikistan > The Wakhan Valley
Dag 48 | Tajikistan > Over the Khargush pass
Dag 49 | Tajikistan > We lost Wilco
Dag 50 | Tajikistan > Over the high Ak-Baital pass
Dag 51 | Kyrgyzstan > Recovering in Osh
Dag 52 | Kyrgyzstan > The Throne of Solomon
Dag 53 | Kyrgyzstan > Misty on the mountain top
Dag 54 | Kyrgyzstan > Overnight stay in a yurt
Dag 55 | Kyrgyzstan > Plov with salad
Dag 56 | Kyrgyzstan > Vodka by Lake Kolsai
Dag 57 | Kazakhstan > Spectacular Charyn Canyon
Dag 58 | Kazakhstan > The cathedrals of Almaty
Dag 59 | Kazakhstan > To Altyn Emel National Park
Dag 60 | Kazakhstan > The Singing Sand Dunes
Dag 61 | Kazakhstan > Looking for a Gamma store
Dag 62 | Kazakhstan > We are not allowed to pay
Dag 63 | Kazakhstan > 133 km/h on the road
Dag 64 | Kazakhstan > A beer in Semey
Dag 65 | Kazakhstan > Walking tour through Semey
Dag 66 | Kazakhstan > Welcome, welcome in Russia
Dag 67 | Russia > The battery light comes on
Dag 68 | Russia > Everyone seems drunk
Dag 69 | Russia > Desolate Kosh Agach
Dag 70 | Russia > Waiting at the border
Dag 71 | Mongolia > Beautiful valleys and lakes
Dag 72 | Mongolia > The road is being paved
Dag 73 | Mongolia > Traditional wrestling
Dag 74 | Mongolia > From Bayankhongor to Arvaikheer
Dag 75 | Mongolia > Slipping on the muddy road
Dag 76 | Mongolia > The Erdene Zuu Monastery
Dag 77 | Mongolia > Entering Ulaanbaatar
Dag 78 | Mongolia > Wandering through Ulaanbaatar
Dag 79 | Mongolia > The front suspension is broken
Dag 80 | Mongolia > The Genghis Khan equestrian statue
Dag 81 | Mongolia > Collision with an eagle
Dag 82 | Mongolia > Celebration in Choibalsan
Dag 83 | Mongolia > Refused entry at the restaurant
Dag 84 | Russia > Water on the hood
Dag 85 | Russia > The Trans-Siberian Highway
Dag 86 | Russia > Do we have a flat tire?
Dag 87 | Russia > Besieged by flies
Dag 88 | Russia > The border town Blagoveshchensk
Dag 89 | Russia > Jewish Autonomous Oblast Birobidzhan
Dag 90 | Russia > Meeting everyone again
Dag 91 | Russia > Sailing the Amur River
Dag 92 | Russia > Looking for a hotel
Dag 93 | Russia > Entering Vladivostok
Dag 94 | Russia > Farewell to the car
Dag 95 | Russia > On the way to Japan
Dag 96 | South Korea > Six hours in South Korea
Dag 97 | Japan > Paperwork, forms, and stamps
Dag 98 | Japan > The Hiroshima memorial
Dag 99 | Japan > Coolant leak
Dag 100 | Japan > TOKYO

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