Georgia > Independence Day in Tbilisi

Today is Independence Day in Georgia. For the 25th time, the country celebrates its independence from Russia. Along the famous Rustaveli Avenue, numerous stalls and stages are set up. Entertainment is everywhere. We order a sandwich at one of the stalls. Just behind the stalls are the Paliasjvili Opera building, the Rustaveli Theater, and the Academy of Sciences. In front of the parliament building, girls are making flower crowns. Nothing here recalls the peaceful demonstration in 1989 that was crushed by Russia. In 2003, President Shevardnadze fled from this palace during the Rose Revolution, after which President Saakashvili took over. Around Freedom Square, it is crowded.

Georgia - A military parade on Freedom Square

Dignitaries greet each other and take their seats on the honorary tribune. Luckily for us, the average Georgian isn’t very tall, so we have a good view. People behind us are less enthusiastic. At exactly twelve o’clock, the parade begins. An American reporter, pushing past me, mentions in her report that next to the Georgian troops, there are not Russian, but American and British troops marching—they recently participated in an exercise. Although Russia called this a provocation, Georgia considers it their right. In the old town, there is a sort of flea market. Trinkets are laid out on all kinds of mats. It’s easy to forget that Tbilisi also has beautiful buildings. Because we want to see several things, we decide to split up and meet later in the afternoon. I wander delightfully through the narrow streets of the old town. The Sioni Cathedral lies right in the middle. The wooden cross of Saint Nino is a pilgrimage object.

Georgia - Helicopters with the Georgian flag fly over the city in honor of Independence Day

I have more difficulty finding the Armenian Saint George Church—I probably took a street too early. When I ask for directions, everyone gets involved. The café owner takes me to the shop next door, and together they point me to the Jewish synagogue. Unfortunately, it is closed, and the adjacent Jerusalem Church is under renovation. However, a barber is open in the Jewish quarter, so I decide to get my hair cut. It’s warm enough to do it outside. On my second attempt, I do find the Armenian church—beautiful! I walk past the church and upward to the Narikala Fortress. Along the way, I have a stunning view of Tbilisi. Many young people are in the fort, challenging each other to climb a steep staircase along the battlements. It is also crowded at the nearby Mother of Georgia statue.

Georgia - View of the Georgian capital Tbilisi

Entire families stroll around this 20-meter-high statue. Using the funicular cable car, I descend again. On the other side of the Mtkvari River, I walk through the park, past the presidential palace, to the Tsminda Sameba Cathedral. Two older men pass me and wave. I shake their hands. When they hear I’m from the Netherlands, they immediately shout “Sandra, Sandra!”—Sandra was the wife of former President Saakashvili and was Dutch. The Tsminda Sameba Cathedral is the largest Georgian Orthodox Cathedral in Georgia. Its golden dome reaches 84 meters high. In the city center, the celebration is still going on. A marching band parades along Rustaveli Avenue. What a wonderful city Tbilisi is to walk through—I’m convinced it would be just as enjoyable even without a national holiday. In the old district, I meet up again with my travel companions. Together, we have a beer. In the evening, after dinner, we go to Rustaveli Square for the fireworks. We understand the fireworks are supposed to start at ten o’clock. We are ready, but no one else seems to expect anything. Nothing starts. A passerby thinks the fireworks will only begin once the concert on the central square ends. We decide not to wait and walk back to the hotel. Almost at the hotel, we hear fireworks, but unfortunately, from this location, they are not visible.