Turkmenistan > Still going to Yangykala

The next morning, I think back over breakfast to all the procedures from last night. The phone rings. It’s Antonina from Stan-tours. Does we know why the boat took so long? She had information that the boat had set out to sea on Sunday but then returned. There is now a one-day delay in the program, she says. We have to pay the guide for the extra waiting day.

Turkmenistan - The beautifully formed rocks of Yangykala Canyon

Alternatively, we could drive directly to Ashgabat today and skip the Yangykala Canyon, which would make up for the delay. We don’t want to do that. Then a second problem arises. Apparently, we are not allowed to drive our own car to Yangykala Canyon, because this turnoff is not indicated on our customs paperwork. Why this is only being mentioned now is unclear. After some discussion, we decide to drive our own car to the overnight spot in Balkanabat and from there make a round trip to the canyon in the guide’s car. This turns out to be possible. Before setting off, we exchange money in the bazaar and stock up on water. The road to Balkanabat is in good condition. Extensive work is underway to widen the road. Why is unclear, as there is hardly any traffic.

Turkmenistan - The beautiful view over Yangykala Canyon in Turkmenistan

Both directions can easily share one lane at the work sites. Even when both directions are in use, cars drive on our side because the asphalt is better there. This requires careful attention when overtaking. The landscape is pure desert. As far as the eye can see, sand stretches out, with the occasional small patch of greenery. We also see the first camels moving through the desert. The road runs perfectly straight. In Balkanabat, the plan changes again. Our guide assumes we will now drive to Yangykala Canyon, spend the night there, and return tomorrow morning. That sounds fun, but it would make tomorrow a very intensive day. The guide does have a tent for us. Our tent is attached to the car and cannot be taken along. We quickly repack some camping gear, load everything into the Toyota Pathfinder, and set off. In the bazaar, we buy some vegetables, meat, and bread for dinner. The road to the canyon is about 160 kilometers, but especially the last part is full of potholes. Chamrat tries to avoid the holes, but this is not always possible. Sometimes he prefers to drive beside the road in the sand rather than on the remaining asphalt. The scenery becomes more and more beautiful.

Turkmenistan - Camels at sunset near Yangykala Canyon

In the distance, we can already see the white and red rock formations. Chamrat turns left onto a sandy track. After a few kilometers, we reach the top of Yangykala Canyon. The jagged rocks, red at the bottom and white on top, are beautifully illuminated by the setting sun. What a stunning and unique environment. At the top, the wind is strong—too strong to pitch our tents. A little further back, there is a more sheltered spot. There is still wind, but slightly less. Just as we set up the tents, I hear a loud sound. It can’t be a camel. Yet, shortly after, a camel pokes its head over the edge of the ridge and looks at us. It turns out to be an entire herd. More and more heads appear. I estimate well over one hundred and fifty camels. They are searching for something to eat while the sun disappears at the horizon. A beautiful combination. At our camp, we prepare our dinner. There is something special about camping here, while for kilometers around, there is no one else. Above us, a magnificent starry sky stretches out. When I go to bed, the wind is still blowing. The outer tent flaps, and occasionally the wind blows underneath it. I burrow deeper into my sleeping bag.