Kazakhstan > The Singing Sand Dunes

We get up early to watch the morning light on the sand dunes in Altyn Emel National Park. From the ranger’s house, it’s still about ten kilometers to the dunes. We can already see the 150-meter-high dunes from a distance. I had expected a broad stretch of dunes, but there are actually three dunes in a row. It’s strange that the surrounding area is still vegetated. We walk through the loose sand toward the tallest dune. Along the crest runs a perfectly straight ridge. The sun lights one side, casting shadow on the other.

Kazakhstan - The singing sand dunes in Altyn Emel National Park

A magnificent sight. The wind blows sand over the edge. At a certain wind strength, you can hear the dune “sing.” For now, I only hear the fairly strong wind whistling. Sand swirls through the air. We climb via the ridge. We’re completely alone. With every step, you sink deep into the sand. It’s a tough climb. I find the view halfway up the hill beautiful enough and turn back. Sand is now everywhere. I carefully try to keep my camera as sand-free as possible. Only once I’m back down do other tourists arrive. Still, you can count them literally on one hand. After the dunes, we drive back along the same road we took last night to the checkpoint just outside Basshi. Here we turn right and head toward the Aktay Mountains. The route is written on a sheet of paper. After passing two villages, we are to take the second road at the five-way junction. Then, after ten kilometers, turn left at a billboard. There are no signs anywhere. Hopefully, this is the correct route. We still have to follow this dirt road for forty kilometers. Just past the turn-off to the Katytay Mountains and the White Mountains, we hear a noise at the right rear wheel. A flat tire? The tire itself is fine, but something is rubbing in the rim.

Kazakhstan - A sandy road on the way to the Aktay Mountains

It turns out to be a protective plate behind the brakes. The metal has broken completely. Not surprising given all the jostling and bouncing on the unpaved roads. Since the plate is broken, we can’t repair it easily, and we can’t remove it either. We try to secure it with a tie-wrap, but in vain. There’s no choice but to jack up the car, remove the wheel, and take off the plate—all under the scorching sun. There is no shade anywhere. We’re not sure if it’s dangerous to drive without the protective plate. Probably, small stones can now get into the brakes more easily. We have no choice but to keep going and wait. By three o’clock, we finally reach the Altay Mountains. Jagged and stunningly colorful mountains. Maybe because of the delay with Brutus or the sweltering heat, we don’t pay much attention to the mountains. We certainly don’t have the energy to hike the last stretch toward them. We take photos from the parking area, then drive back along the same dirt road to Basshi. Today’s endpoint is Taldykorgan. The motorcyclists, who didn’t go to the Aktay Mountains, are already there.

Kazakhstan - The colorful Aktay Mountains in Altyn Emel NP

Based on the coordinates of the hotel for tonight, it’s still 200 kilometers to go. Luckily, the road is fairly good. Roadwork is underway along the way. The 50 km/h speed limit is widely ignored; as soon as a signal is given, everyone promptly returns to fifty. At exactly seven o’clock, we enter Taldykorgan, a somewhat larger city. We stay at the Grand Hotel. The lobby and reception are indeed spacious, but the rooms themselves are very small. Still, it’s fine for an overnight stay. The motorcyclists haven’t made it through the day without setbacks either. Milko’s exhaust has come loose again. The temporary patch, in place since Baku, only lasts about two weeks at a time. A special ring he needs for this is being shipped from the Netherlands to Semey. It should arrive Monday. This is a bit later than planned, but without this ring, we can’t continue. Wilco also suffered damage. On the way back from the dunes, he lost his luggage strapped on the back. He only noticed this thirty kilometers later. Fortunately, Milko found the luggage along the road. Because the luggage had initially rested against the exhaust, some bags and the tent were damaged. We decide to spend an extra day in Taldykorgan tomorrow to make repairs and replace some gear.